Single mech mod button getting warm
- Thread starter Kilherza
- Start date
Its prolly the petri clone, it tends to do it, read it on the reviews, the authentic is much better made and wont get a hot button, I run 0.1 on all my mechs and the buttons never get warm, not even with chain vaping it.
Hi @Kilherza
I dont have the Petri so I cant really advise you on that - i see @Migs has answered that
But it is concerning that you are using a mech but you dont know what battery you are using.
Each battery has its own maximum continuous current draw limitations.
At 0.21 ohms you are drawing approximately 20 amps
If your battery has for example a 15A CDR limit, then you are looking for problems.
May I suggest you
Find out what battery you have
Then visit Mooch's battery guide - google it you will find it - and check out its max CDR limit
Then build to that with a good safety margin built in.
If you are noticing things getting warm, that might be a fault of the mod, but it also might be a sign of something else going wrong.
A button heating up is usually a sign of a bad or dirty contact. Make sure everything is clean, actually clean the contacts, don't just think it's clean because it looks clean. A pencil eraser does a great job of removing the oxidation or machining residue off the contact points. Also make sure that the contacts don't have any high points and are even, sand them down with some 360 grit sandpaper or nail file if necessary. You want the whole surface of the contact touching the battery to easy the flow of current, if all that power is trying to squeeze through just the edge of the contact point then there is going to be a heat build up.
It's also a sign of a shitty clone. My SMPL clone does it also, I have cleaned everything and sanded it down and tried all the normal things. Doesn't make a difference, I just wrote it off as a bad purchase lol
EDIT: I just realized it might sound like I am insinuating you have a shitty clone. I am not doing that, my clone is a bad one, the suggestions might work well for you. Be safe.
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Not really, there's not much to a mech tube mod. Contacts need to be clean and you need to know your battery limits. Clone tube or not, its that simple.
Break the mech down, wash mod, clean contacts and it should be good to go. That's if you are building within your batteries limits
I've tried that, I definitely build well within limits. I reckon it's gone something to do with the threading that isn't great on my clone.Not really, there's not much to a mech tube mod. Contacts need to be clean and you need to know your battery limits. Clone tube or not, its that simple.
Break the mech down, wash mod, clean contacts and it should be good to go. That's if you are building within your batteries limits
How do the threads look? If there's dirt, use a old tooth brush to get the dirt out.
Better yet, send the Smpl to me and all othe bad clones you find, I'll get rid of it for you
My wind-egg to @Kilherza :
I assume the battery is adequately rated to deliver a constant current of >20A
A mechanical device will get warm at any point in the electrical path where there is resistance (in your case the button). Your coil in the atomizer is a resistive-element, that's why it gets hot (in this instance 0.21 Ohm). Any contact point that have carbon build-up and/or dirt particles, forms a resistive-element in the electrical path and hence will get hot. A mechanical switch will arc at such a current draw, and accordingly deposit carbon on the battery terminals as well as on the switch mechanism contact/s.
Solution: 1. Clean every contact point and all terminals properly, including 510 connector (use contact cleaner or get some isopropyl alcohol from pharmacy). 2. Use a dielectric grease on the mechanical switch contact/s as well as battery terminals to prevent arcing (that leads to carbon buildup).
PS: the above are also applicable to high power electronic devices' battery terminals and contact points.
I assume the battery is adequately rated to deliver a constant current of >20A
A mechanical device will get warm at any point in the electrical path where there is resistance (in your case the button). Your coil in the atomizer is a resistive-element, that's why it gets hot (in this instance 0.21 Ohm). Any contact point that have carbon build-up and/or dirt particles, forms a resistive-element in the electrical path and hence will get hot. A mechanical switch will arc at such a current draw, and accordingly deposit carbon on the battery terminals as well as on the switch mechanism contact/s.
Solution: 1. Clean every contact point and all terminals properly, including 510 connector (use contact cleaner or get some isopropyl alcohol from pharmacy). 2. Use a dielectric grease on the mechanical switch contact/s as well as battery terminals to prevent arcing (that leads to carbon buildup).
PS: the above are also applicable to high power electronic devices' battery terminals and contact points.
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