SnowWolf 200watt with Temp

[johan]

I don't think those specifications are misleading per say, just not complete (General problem with temp control mods). The operating ranges are stated, as is the max current. I don't see any claims stating that the device does 200w @ 0.04ohm with a 35A battery, simply that the wattage is adjustable between 5w and 200w and that it accepts coils between 0.04ohm and 2.5ohm.

What I feel is needed with temp regulated mods is different resistances for kanthal and nickel.

From what I understand about temp control... Nickel has low resistance at room temp (0.04ohm lower limit, check), but as it heats the resistance increases, which is how the whole temp regulation bit works, because the mod calculates what the heat of the nickel is based on its starting resistance. The mods don't actually measure the heat of the coil.

Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Lastly, why would people be excited about a mod that "can" run kantal at such low ohms when batteries can't safely handle those resistances? On a vw mod you don't need to super sub-ohm anyway as you can change the wattage...

• All depends how you look at it, but for me personally Ohms law and maths can't lie.
• You are absolutely right on the nickel wire and how the unit measures the increase in resistance and not the temperature itself, but the resistance and temperature are directly related to each other pertaining to nickel and that relation per se is very accurate - used in the temperature measuring and control industry apart from vape related equipment.
• Because current limiting is build into an electronic mod (35A in this unit in question, doesn't matter at which watt setting or how low the coil in resistance), but in a pure mechanical mod it will be plain stupidity.

 

[Paulie]

I don't think those specifications are misleading per say, just not complete (General problem with temp control mods). The operating ranges are stated, as is the max current. I don't see any claims stating that the device does 200w @ 0.04ohm with a 35A battery, simply that the wattage is adjustable between 5w and 200w and that it accepts coils between 0.04ohm and 2.5ohm.

What I feel is needed with temp regulated mods is different resistances for kanthal and nickel.

From what I understand about temp control... Nickel has low resistance at room temp (0.04ohm lower limit, check), but as it heats the resistance increases, which is how the whole temp regulation bit works, because the mod calculates what the heat of the nickel is based on its starting resistance. The mods don't actually measure the heat of the coil.

Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Lastly, why would people be excited about a mod that "can" run kantal at such low ohms when batteries can't safely handle those resistances? On a vw mod you don't need to super sub-ohm anyway as you can change the wattage...

Thought i would add a few points in here

When running on nickel mode the lower the resistance is important for people who want to build dual coils or even people who want to use higher gauges of wire. For example when you you 28G you need to use a min 2.5id with 9 wrapps to get close to 0.1. So i would prefer to have a device that could allow me to build lower nickel builds so it will allow me to have more build options.

On your second point it think the lower kanthal builds are more tailored for people who want to blow big clouds and when you want to go over the 100W you will need to build with thick wire and large diameters to avoid the vape from getting to hot.

I hope this explains abit.

 

[DemonicBunnee]

Maybe I should clarify more... Prepare the wall of text!

Try firing a coil that is below the minimum resistance on a vw mod and it will give you an error due to the chip's built in protection. So to fire nickel coils which have realllllllly low resistance when at room temp you need to lower that parameter on the chip, otherwise it won't fire. Then because nickel is nickel, as it heats the resistance goes up to the more normal levels, the ones that we are use to on kanthal.

This low resistance stated is for nickel not for kanthal. The 0.04ohm is the minimum the chip will be happy to fire, IE @Paulie would be able to run dual 28G, 2.5ID 9Wrap coils.

@johan:
It is exactly because of ohm's law that the specifications stated are not misleading. They are ranges, which simply indicate that your variables need to stay within them. Once again, it never says that the device will provide 200w @ 0.04Ohms.

Analogy time, the Bugatti Veyron has a top speed of over 400km/h, but it needs a pretty long stretch of road to get there, just because there are conditions that need to be met (Lots of road) does not suddenly mean the car can no longer be specified as having a 400km/h topspeed.

Same thing with the Snowwolf, it is a 200w mod, the conditions that need to be met are that the maximum power draw can not exceed 35A, the maximum voltage can not be more than 7.0v, and thanks to ohms we see that the coils needed would be between 0.17 and 0.2ohm get that 200w.

Now the clever ones will spot that 0.2Ohm @ 7.0v and 35A actually give us 245w, and this is where the mod simply lowers the voltage which also lessens the power draw to 6.32v and 31.62A to give us 200w.

On your second point it think the lower kanthal builds are more tailored for people who want to blow big clouds and when you want to go over the 100W you will need to build with thick wire and large diameters to avoid the vape from getting to hot.

I totally agree with you here. If you were to build an atty to get to 0.04Ohm you would be building something like a quad coil rig, with 2mm id, and 3 wraps per coil on 22g, which is the equivalent (surface area wise) of running dual 6wraps (0.15Ohm).

With the limitations of the Snowwolf you would get 49w at 0.04Ohm (35A being the limiting factor here). 0.15Ohm would net you a respectable 183.75w.

 

[johan]

@DemonicBunnee, we both agree on the majority of points while we both look from different perspectives .

 

[DemonicBunnee]

@johan I promise my only aim with the discussion is to test my knowledge and understanding, and to learn more. From what I've seen on the forum there is no one better to learn from than Ohm johan himself

 

[johan]

@johan I promise my only aim with the discussion is to test my knowledge and understanding, and to learn more. From what I've seen on the forum there is no one better to learn from than Ohm johan himself

Absolutely nothing wrong with your knowledge and I did not sense any hostility from you at all. I love a good discussion, even if at the end we would disagree and I will never hold it against that member/s. Believe you me, there are many members on this forum which are way more knowledgeable than me.

 

[kev mac]

Absolutely nothing wrong with your knowledge and I did not sense any hostility from you at all. I love a good discussion, even if at the end we would disagree and I will never hold it against that member/s. Believe you me, there are many members on this forum which are way more knowledgeable than me.

I've yet to see one.

 

[Gizmo]

 

[kev mac]

Me likee!

 

[Dr Phil]

What a fantastic device price point and quality is top class temp control works very well

 

[Dr Phil]

And no hot glue

 

[kev mac]

What a fantastic device price point and quality is top class temp control works very well

Ever had any problem w/ the auto wire selector ?

 

[Dr Phil]

Not at all works every time

 

[MetalGearX]

I have had issues. When installing kanthal coil I find that I need to keep the fire button in until it registers the coil. Do not I repeat do not do this with a dry coil. Always make sure that there is juice on the wick and enough of it when you do this and keep your wattage between 17 and 20 if you have a kangertech device. I only do this with kanthal and not for temp sensing. temp sensing picks up the coil every time.