@Smokyg
I have no idea what you have there, i just want to know does the coil disintegrate if you keep on dry burning it?
Strange Kanthal corrosion
- Thread starter Smokyg
- Start date
@Smokyg
I have no idea what you have there, i just want to know does the coil disintegrate if you keep on dry burning it?
Yip yip. I started noticing when i rewic and clean out my dripper, i dry burn the coil to get the gunk and old juice off and then this blue started to happen. Didnt think much of it. Then it happened again and again and again. Tested with my 24G, 28 and 32 and no problem, only my 26G that does it.
Okay I would suggest chucking it, and getting some new stock. I have never experienced that.
Does this happen if you put an open flame to it or just pass a high current through it?
Seems to me your 26g is substandard - I would chuck it as @Alex suggests.
From the kantal PDF
Corrosion Resistance
Corrosive or potentially corrosive consti-
tuents can considerably shorten wire life.
Perspiring hands, mounting or supporting
materials or contamination can cause corro-
sion
Corrosion Resistance
Corrosive or potentially corrosive consti-
tuents can considerably shorten wire life.
Perspiring hands, mounting or supporting
materials or contamination can cause corro-
sion
I have never seen anything like this before!
Looks like very dodgy kanthal.
I would chuck that 26g right out. ASAP
Looks like very dodgy kanthal.
I would chuck that 26g right out. ASAP
Torch does nothing to it, but then again the torch cant get it close to as hot as it does when its fired on the mod..
Exactly the same
Then, imo all evidence points to that wire being not up to scratch.
I have also used @Smokyg 's 26 gauge Kanthal to build coils as the 26 gauge I bought was in actual fact 28 gauge Kanthal. @Smokyg used an IgoL, IgoW and his mini erd, same result on all of them. I have tried it in my 3D, Kayfun and Stillair, same result. I have also fired it on the SVD that is not as powerfull as a mec mod and it also does the same. The only explanation to this is that it is sub par Kanthal.
I refused to vape with it! Well it is actually not even possible to vape with it as it literately falls apart! Really disappointing
I refused to vape with it! Well it is actually not even possible to vape with it as it literately falls apart! Really disappointing
Agreed, i must say that i have used quite a bit of the kanthal off of the spool and the first 20 or so coils were fine. Perhaps humidity in the office affected it or the fact that i handle that spool much more that i do the 24 or 28g.
I just found this whole experience strange and thought i would share it and get some opinions.
And hoped someone knew metals enough to know what was happening..
Why do you not send a picture and description to Kanthal, asking them? http://www.kanthal.com/en/contact-us/Agreed, i must say that i have used quite a bit of the kanthal off of the spool and the first 20 or so coils were fine. Perhaps humidity in the office affected it or the fact that i handle that spool much more that i do the 24 or 28g.
I just found this whole experience strange and thought i would share it and get some opinions.
If only we had a Metallurgical engineer on the forum!
From the color heat gauge thingie in the Kanthal PDF, it looks like you are pushing borderline Kanthal D disintegrating point. That is why i am asking. I am not knowledgeable in this so i might be way of
That does seem right... If the chart shows actual color of the coil when fired... Then this makes lots of sense then
From the color heat gauge thingie in the Kanthal PDF, it looks like you are pushing borderline Kanthal D disintegrating point. That is why i am asking. I am not knowledgeable in this so i might be way of
Thanks @kimbo
Seems like we might have figured it out then
Conclusion :
1. Dont fire your coils to their limit when dry burning.
2. Wrap higher ohm coils so they cant go hotter than the wire's "FU" point.
3. Use nichrome
Conclusion :
1. Dont fire your coils to their limit when dry burning.
2. Wrap higher ohm coils so they cant go hotter than the wire's "FU" point.
3. Use nichrome
Kanthal D continuous operating temperature - 1200°C
Kanthal A1 continuous operating temperature - 1400°C
Kanthal A1 continuous operating temperature - 1400°C
So essentially Kanthal D would be perfect for day to day vaping, no issue, its perfect. Its when you really go all out A1 is the way to go.
Thus for us serious sub ohmers building 0.2 and considering that to be high we need A1. Currently i vary my coils between 0.14 ohm and 0.3 Max...
Perhaps i should settle down with my builds... But damn its such a awesome hot vape man...
I have never used anything other than A1 - it is cheap enough. And I do around 5 second pulses when dry burning.
Similar threads
