Sx350 - 510 Connectors, Ohm Readings And Other Stuff Needed?

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Hey guys and gals

With the arrival of my SX350 chip looming, the logistics and components of the build are starting to become a priority in my mind.

I know we discussed in the sx350 buyers thread that we would start a new thread in which more experienced vapers and people with engineering knowhow would be kind enough to assist us laypeople with how we are going to go about building our Doomsday devices.

With that said, I'm putting out the call for help from members of the community.

A) What hardware do we need to make this happen and where do we get it?
B) What tools?
C) What skills?
D) Best batteries to use?
E) Can any 510 connector read Ohms or is there a specific one needed?

Obviously the more detail that's provided, the more it will help peeps like me to get the show on the road. Any pics, and links to videos and tutorials that would be of use would be awesome too!

Many thanks in advance!
 
Just to start here, 510 connector on its own can't read ohms. A 510 connector is a mechanical piece connecting your atomizer to your mod (M7 X 0,.5mm to be precice) if I understand your question E) correctly.

Regarding batteries, 1 x Efest 18650 will suffice.

Tools: Soldering iron, side cutter, drill, and some files.

Hardware: a box (plastic/metal) to hold the SX350 and battery as well as to mount your 510 connector and an appropriate switch to serve as firing button.
 
I was wondering about the 510 connection. If you mill your enclosure out of aluminium, why buy a press fit 510 connection when you can simply drill and tap with a bottoming tap?
 
The 510 connector seems the most difficult part to find - I am actually looking for a connecter with bottom feeding capabilities like the reo connector. Any ideas?

Sent from my SM-G900H using Tapatalk
 
Thanks @johan

What i meant about the connector is that I've been looking for some and a few of them have stated that they read ohms. I thought that this would be a bit weird, as my understanding is that it's the PCB that does the actual work via the connection to the connector. Just wanted some clarification on that.

@soonkia - red connector?
 
The 510 connector seems the most difficult part to find - I am actually looking for a connecter with bottom feeding capabilities like the reo connector. Any ideas?

Sent from my SM-G900H using Tapatalk

Drill out tap M7 x 0.5mm, teflon/acytal insulating bush - then M3 brass/ss screw as centre pin in 510 connector. Get it to a precision engineering shop to drill a 1mm dia. hole through the M3 screw.
 
I was wondering about the 510 connection. If you mill your enclosure out of aluminium, why buy a press fit 510 connection when you can simply drill and tap with a bottoming tap?

Conductivity would be your biggest problem I'd guess.

Sent from my SM-G900H using Tapatalk
 
Drill out tap M7 x 0.5mm, teflon/acytal insulating bush - then M3 brass/ss screw as centre pin in 510 connector. Get it to a precision engineering shop to drill a 1mm dia. hole through the M3 screw.

I was thinking of a bush turned out fo delrin/vesconite.
 
Thanks @johan

What i meant about the connector is that I've been looking for some and a few of them have stated that they read ohms. I thought that this would be a bit weird, as my understanding is that it's the PCB that does the actual work via the connection to the connector. Just wanted some clarification on that.

@soonkia - red connector?

You are right the 510 connector is the connector "output" between pcb and atomizer and "input" connector when reading ohms with the SX350
 
I was thinking of a bush turned out fo delrin/vesconite.

Vesconite will be ideal, I only mentioned acytal as it can handle high heat and is easy to work with in a lathe
 
Vesconite will be ideal, I only mentioned acytal as it can handle high heat and is easy to work with in a lathe

good point, I actually forgot about the heat issue.
 
good point, I actually forgot about the heat issue.

IMO Vesconite is better (can also handle high heat), but for me that doesn't work everyday on a lathe, its a bliksem of a material
 
IMO Vesconite is better (can also handle high heat), but for me that doesn't work everyday on a lathe, its a bliksem of a material
That it is. The few times I've worked with it was not a great experience. I would be inclined to look for something else.
 
Maizies plastics (JHB & PTA) stock Acytal, used in a lot of medical equipment, and for me as an amateur is an easy material to work with - I don't know what Delrin exactly is, but assume its a trade name for something like teflon?
 
there's a few ways to do it, depending on the tools at hand. Coincidentally I was watching pbusardo's review of the reo (he shows the connector and so on) so I had a go at making something similar. Pictures below arent even of a prototype, I was just messing about with the concept, getting a feel for how the parts will go together, so all dimensions are badly wrong, but it like that big model of a frog you had at school...it shows you how a frog works)
IMG_20140604_105424.jpg
the three pieces...the bit on the left can be your case of your mod...its just the bit that the atty screws into.
middle is your center pin
and the black delrin is the insulator


IMG_20140604_105452.jpg
center pin pushed into the insulator, the shoulder on the center pin is what it seats against.

IMG_20140604_105548.jpg
screw insulator into mount (from bottom) This gives it some adjustability..screw in more to raise center pin, less to lower pin, that is why I left a shoulder on the insulator...imagine it is inside your mod, you can turn that turny thing to adjust center pin height. Center pin is long on the lower section so that a tube can attach, and also for a notch or something for the positive connection.

IMG_20140604_105559.jpg
all assembled, showing the hole. That is a 4mm diameter center pin, with a 2mm hole, giving 1mm sides.

Of course, refinement is necessary, and of course a chi-you topcap is like $3 from ft..but thats about as simple a connector I could come up with, that gives adjustables pin height, bottom feeding abilities as well as somewhere for the positive wire to get to and a tube.

^something like that :)
 
Maizies plastics (JHB & PTA) stock Acytal, used in a lot of medical equipment, and for me as an amateur is an easy material to work with - I don't know what Delrin exactly is, but assume its a trade name for something like teflon?

Delrin is DuPont brandname for Acytal
 
Delrin also known as Polyoxymethylene (POM), also known as acetal,[1] polyacetal and polyformaldehyde, is an engineering thermoplastic used in precision parts requiring high stiffness
 
Wow. This is getting higher grade.

And what about the rest of us mere mortals who are just handy with a drill and know which side of the hammer is for hammering?

Not to be rude or put a damper, but could you guys maybe "dumb it down" for me? Please?
 
Wow. This is getting higher grade.

And what about the rest of us mere mortals who are just handy with a drill and know which side of the hammer is for hammering?

Not to be rude or put a damper, but could you guys maybe "dumb it down" for me? Please?

will this help? PLEASE IGNORE MY SILLY ANSWER

EmergencyPV.jpg
 
I mean, can't I just buy a prewired 510 connector from ebay or HC or something and just wire that to the pcb?

Making my own was never really part of the plan, although I wouldn't mind trying! ;)
 
Yes...

Yes, I can see how that would work. In a really dangerous, let me kill myself kind of way... :wait::rofl:??
 
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