B
BioHAZarD
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HeyAnyone else with a really dim LED screen?
And a remedy?
Same problem. Can't see a thing on the screen. Sending mine back. See my post earlier in the thread.
No remedy
SXK BILLET BOX - Reviews & Discussions
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Same problem. Can't see a thing on the screen. Sending mine back. See my post earlier in the thread.
No remedy
B
BioHAZarD
Guest
At this point i am not sureSame here
Will you be getting a new one?
Sent from my Note 4
I must be frank, I quite like this little device, will keep it, and adjust settings in dead of night. I might have it fixed if I can someone who'll do LED screens
Ai @Caramia and @BioHAZarD so sorry to hear about you issues.
I really hope you get them sorted.
So, today was pitstop central.
I rebuilt my insider probably 7 times.
Each time trying a different coil.
Either changing wire type, or coil type.
Found the following.
Ni80 and SS doesn't work, ohms keep changing and dry hits are at the order of the day. (Can I lock ohms somehow)
So kanthal it is.
Flat clapton so far is best.
28ga plain rou d works well, but gives zero flavour.
So I'm back to my first build.
I'm gonna visit a friend a little later who has 24ga, hoping that makes a difference.
Any other ideas?
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I really hope you get them sorted.
So, today was pitstop central.
I rebuilt my insider probably 7 times.
Each time trying a different coil.
Either changing wire type, or coil type.
Found the following.
Ni80 and SS doesn't work, ohms keep changing and dry hits are at the order of the day. (Can I lock ohms somehow)
So kanthal it is.
Flat clapton so far is best.
28ga plain rou d works well, but gives zero flavour.
So I'm back to my first build.
I'm gonna visit a friend a little later who has 24ga, hoping that makes a difference.
Any other ideas?
Sent from my iPhone 7+ using Tapatalk
Sorry @GerritVisagie, I cannot help you out there, I have the Exoclone, and no complaints.
I use 24ga kanthal with good success, actually. About 5 wraps. But then again, it's not on the Insider so can't really relate.
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My built on the insider is a Ni80, 24 AWG, 2.5 mm ID, 7 Wraps, coil hight level with short post, wicking bowtie cut 1/3 just touching the base/ juice channel. Make sure the 510 is tightly screwed to the RBA base (mine was loose) so far ohm stable on 0.47 ohm and not fluctuating. Did not find anything on the menu to lock the resistance. System settings access, press left button and power button simultaneously will have acces to puff counter, taste adjustment (looks like ramp-up time) screen on/off and screen rotation, all I could find so far. Hope this will be of some help, still experimenting myself.
Thanx man.
With Nichrome and SS it's like the ohms go up when the coil heats, and comes down when it cools.
Maybe I did something wrong. I'll try them again.
But first I need to try 24 GA.
That I haven't done yet.
Don't have any 24ga.
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Vaping on 15 watt, checked the screen while pressing the power button, slight jumps between 0.45 and 0.47 ohms, nothing major, hope you come right with the 24 AWG Ni80.Thanx man.
With Nichrome and SS it's like the ohms go up when the coil heats, and comes down when it cools.
Maybe I did something wrong. I'll try them again.
But first I need to try 24 GA.
That I haven't done yet.
Don't have any 24ga.
Sent from my iPhone 7+ using Tapatalk
Sent from my E5633 using Tapatalk
While it's supposed to go up when it heats (that's how TC works, sort of), it shouldn't go up by THAT much - you're right. I'm sure you've covered these avenues, but just in case you overlooked something (I always overlook thingsThanx man.
With Nichrome and SS it's like the ohms go up when the coil heats, and comes down when it cools.
Maybe I did something wrong. I'll try them again.
But first I need to try 24 GA.
That I haven't done yet.
Don't have any 24ga.
Sent from my iPhone 7+ using Tapatalk
)..1) After heating/pulsing, did you re-tighten the post screws?
2) No part of the coil is touching the side, right? Including the parts you snip off at the post (on the Exocet for instance, if they protrude past the screw even by a nanometer, it'll touch the cap)
3) Is the driptip-adapter-thing-that-we-really-need-an-official-name-for tightened securely?
4) Is it a full moon?
5) Ignore #4
Managed to fit a 6 wrap fused clapton (2x 29G / 36G) N80 3mm ID in my exocet, damn what a good vape.
While it's supposed to go up when it heats (that's how TC works, sort of), it shouldn't go up by THAT much - you're right. I'm sure you've covered these avenues, but just in case you overlooked something (I always overlook things
1) After heating/pulsing, did you re-tighten the post screws?
2) No part of the coil is touching the side, right? Including the parts you snip off at the post (on the Exocet for instance, if they protrude past the screw even by a nanometer, it'll touch the cap)
3) Is the driptip-adapter-thing-that-we-really-need-an-official-name-for tightened securely?
4) Is it a full moon?
5) Ignore #4
Yes to all, except no1
Dammit!
And no4... That would make sense!
So my nomination for "the thingy"
Is "the borolocker"
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Interesting question for the BB users - I have a 0.44 ohm build on the Exocet, 24ga roundwire kanthal, 5 wraps. I find that the sweet spot is 22W.
Can it be that low?
I've got a .67 ohm build at 15-20W that's doing pretty good. I've pushed it to 30W with no issues as well. That's what I love about the bb Exocet combo... you're sweet spot is always much lower than the maximum capability so it's easy for the wicks to keep up with the coils uncompromisingly
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Thanx man.
With Nichrome and SS it's like the ohms go up when the coil heats, and comes down when it cools.
Maybe I did something wrong. I'll try them again.
But first I need to try 24 GA.
That I haven't done yet.
Don't have any 24ga.
Sent from my iPhone 7+ using Tapatalk
I have also been trying to build the insider a couple of times today . I have been using ni80 26 gauge . No ohms jumping but the flavor feels very muted . Seems like quiet a mission to get the wicking right
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could it really be all about the wicking, it seems like plain round wire in the Insider is not the way to go, i got better flavor even with twisted wire... but so far, the best i got is from a "flat Clapton" .
experiments shall continue tomorrow and ill report back. probably only after work
The way i understand it, is with the "stock" deck you get with the BBOX, you have to completely install the deck inside the boro, with the chimney section, bolt it down with the "boro lock"
And only then can you dry-burn your coils.
With this though, you install it in your bbox, and pop that deck/atty on top so you can dry burn without doing a complete install of everything.
It also aparently gives you the ability to use any 510theaded atty on top of the BBOX.
Waiting for payday, then I'll let you know
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I know this is the wrong thread, but guys what's your thoughts on this BB 70w sxk? I'm really really tempted to get one but I'm unsure if I'm going to enjoy it, simply because it looks like a complex and high maintenance device
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