Temp control - stainless steel

Waheebh

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I just had some questions on ss temp control. Its my first time I've tried to build with ss.

Let's first get to what happened. I will explain the variables and questions after.

So after the build, gently pulsed it up in power mode as instructed and obvious general rule. It was a contact build. After wicking, I couldn't wait to fire it up in temp control! It never happened.

First of all I set it real low. Something like 35watts, 120°c. Locked the resistance and everything.

I fired it for a second or two and then it goes back to power mode over and over again.

Eventually I started over. Except this time, spaced wraps. Still wasn't happening! By this time I'm ready to gently destroy this mod..

So I came up with reason. My mod is a week old and I'm giving it the benefit of the doubt. This is where the variables come into play..

(Please let me know if I'm wrong here)
First of all, it was ss fused claptons made by geekvape. I first thought it was because I hadn't spaced the wraps.
After that epic fail, I figured what if the core of the claptons aren't stainless? Does this happen? Or is there an issue with the mod?

The mod is the Wismec predator 228. Built into the big tornado rta. The claptons are fused using 26g "stainless steel" and wrapped in 32g "stainless steel". All 316L.

My guess is the wire has messed me around and I should wrap my own claptons from scratch.

Any input would be valued. Thanks in advance.
 
I just want to stop you right at the part you said it jumps straight to power mode. I knew immediately that you were using a Joyetech or Wismec product. Low and behold it's a Predator 228 :D

So this is a known problem with the above devices. It's trying to be clever. But it isn't.

Install Arctic Fox and you won't have the problem again. Been using TC without issues since I flashed the Predator.

www.nfeteam.org

Enjoy!
 
Last edited:
I just want to stop you right at the part you said it jumps straight to power mod. I knew immediately that you were using a Joyetech or Wismec product. Low and behold it's a Predator 228 :D

So this is a known problem with the above devices. It's trying to be clever. But it isn't.

Install Arctic Fox and you won't have the problem again. Been using TC without issues since I flashed the Predator.

www.nfeteam.org

Enjoy!
Thank you so much for the input and I will definitely do that but please explain to me quickly what you want me to do? Just a brief description..

Sent from my MediaPad T1 8.0 Pro using Tapatalk
 
Cool! See below:

1. Download Arctic Fox toolbox (only works on Windows) (https://github.com/TBXin/NFirmwareEditor/releases)
2. Download Arctic Fox Firmware (it's the ".bin" file) (https://github.com/maelstrom2001/ArcticFox/releases)
3. Open up the toolbox
4. Connect device (it can be powered on)
5. Select "Firmware Update(r)" on the toolbox
6. Browse for the ".bin" file containing the firmware.
7. The toolbox will automatically flash the device.
8. Profit!

Just to add: it's worth having a look at their GitHub profile / readme files with the above links. Lots of functionality that is worth understanding (makes life easier)
 
Shot bru! You're awesome! Made my day.. I thought I was screwed! I will let you know when it works.

Sent from my MediaPad T1 8.0 Pro using Tapatalk
 
Cool! See below:

1. Download Arctic Fox toolbox (only works on Windows) (https://github.com/TBXin/NFirmwareEditor/releases)
2. Download Arctic Fox Firmware (it's the ".bin" file) (https://github.com/maelstrom2001/ArcticFox/releases)
3. Open up the toolbox
4. Connect device (it can be powered on)
5. Select "Firmware Update(r)" on the toolbox
6. Browse for the ".bin" file containing the firmware.
7. The toolbox will automatically flash the device.
8. Profit!

Just to add: it's worth having a look at their GitHub profile / readme files with the above links. Lots of functionality that is worth understanding (makes life easier)
You know, I've never told another man that wasn't related to me that I love him. But I feel this deep sense of affection for you all of a sudden. Lmao

Thanks brother.. not only does it work well, it looks better now!
 
One thing I've noticed, low resistance builds are dicey with tc, even on a DNA, as the changes are less noticeable.

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
 
One thing I've noticed, low resistance builds are dicey with tc, even on a DNA, as the changes are less noticeable.

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
The fact that the build was so low was a concern to me as well.. I should've started simpler.
 
Cool! See below:

1. Download Arctic Fox toolbox (only works on Windows) (https://github.com/TBXin/NFirmwareEditor/releases)
2. Download Arctic Fox Firmware (it's the ".bin" file) (https://github.com/maelstrom2001/ArcticFox/releases)
3. Open up the toolbox
4. Connect device (it can be powered on)
5. Select "Firmware Update(r)" on the toolbox
6. Browse for the ".bin" file containing the firmware.
7. The toolbox will automatically flash the device.
8. Profit!

Just to add: it's worth having a look at their GitHub profile / readme files with the above links. Lots of functionality that is worth understanding (makes life easier)
I have some more questions if its ok with you. Sometimes it says tcr error.. Any idea what this may be? It fires fine in power mode so I don't think anything is touching. What else could it be?

Sent from my MediaPad T1 8.0 Pro using Tapatalk
 
Most likely the minimal resistance change is being picked up as a non tc coil.

Try another build at around .5 ohm and see

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
 
Most likely the minimal resistance change is being picked up as a non tc coil.

Try another build at around .5 ohm and see

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
Actually, I did some research and it says to uncheck the 'check tcr' function within the arctic fox tool box. Works like a charm. Only thing is that you have to be certain that the build is stainless steel. So for anyone experiencing this issue, uncheck that box.
 
You know, I've never told another man that wasn't related to me that I love him. But I feel this deep sense of affection for you all of a sudden. Lmao

Thanks brother.. not only does it work well, it looks better now!

You are most welcome!! I think this firmware helps the device to be what it should have been! :D :party:
 
Hi all, first time I tried TC mode I went to shop (Juicy Joes) bought Some 316 ss 24g and i was so convinced it was gona work lol. I made coils with 10 wrap 3.2mm ID (inner diameter) @ .25 ohms (not spaced but touching) Went in TC mode started at 200°c at 30w nothing. Worked my way up to 250 and about 50w and still nothing. Made so little vapour i thought no my mod obviously doesn't do well with TC.

Back to watts & it worked fine.. I thought no ways and tried again 2 days later. I made the same coils but spaced them and lone and behold they worked!
Wires 24g is a bit thick so lots of clouding for those into clouding. But you can go thinner to like 28g +- flavour should be even better with thinner wire i reckon. Going to twist up x4 like 32g soon so I'll let you know how that comes out lol.

So 2 start of with i recommend go with a single core coil and space it. Use like a Vape Calculator off App Store to determine your ohms roughly before you start building. You don't wana build it and it's way to low (0.10 or lower) is a little dodge I'd say. So i don't know why it didn't work with the first coils.. everything seemed stable and i take time with my builds. Anyway spaced are perfect for me i run only TC from then on at 50W around 225/230°C. Play around see what taste good for you.. where you have consistent vapour and flavour. You know it's working fine if you not burning wicks.

So go out there guys give it a try it worked for me and i haven't gone back. Again like everything in vaping whatever works for you is fine at the end of the day!

Using Smok H-Priv 220w mod R700+-
IJOY Combo RDTA R550 +- velocity deck
 
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