Recently, the Nickel 200 coil is very popular. But I have no idea how to use it? Any big difference with Kanthal A1 coils? Anybody used the Nickel coils?
The newly Nickel 200 Coil, totally have no idea
- Thread starter HealthCabin
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Only use Ni200 when using a temperature limiting mod, like DNA40 etc.
Its MUCH different to Kanthal. Its a LOT softer, much harder to get right, and more prone to shorts etc.
Also, it is a VERY LOW RESISTANCE wire - to the point where its often referred to as "no-resistance wire".
DO NOT use Ni200 on ANY mod other than those with temperature limiting.
Its MUCH different to Kanthal. Its a LOT softer, much harder to get right, and more prone to shorts etc.
Also, it is a VERY LOW RESISTANCE wire - to the point where its often referred to as "no-resistance wire".
DO NOT use Ni200 on ANY mod other than those with temperature limiting.
Yeah been reading up on the Ni 200 and seems people are moving over to the "Hard Drawn" type. Copied and pasted off a supplier site it states "But basically this is a metalworking process which uses tensile forces to stretch metal. As the metal is drawn (pulled), it stretches thinner, into a desired shape and thickness. This is ideal for wires that are required to be more springlike."
There are numerous complaints that the soft version is almost impossible to change wick without damaging the coil.
There are numerous complaints that the soft version is almost impossible to change wick without damaging the coil.
Please take note of the commment made by @WHeunis !
If you are going to use it on a DNA 40 or any temp limiting board:
- The coil needs to be a spaced coil. Try ensure that all spaces are even. A trick ive picked up on how to wrap an evenly spaced coil, is to wrap a paralell coil and then remove the one coil. This will ensure your wraps are evenly spaced.
- Make sure that your wire is making a good connection to your posts. If you're building on a deck with normal posts/screws be careful here as you might end up snapping the leads when tightening down. If you're using a device that traps wire, a extra wrap around to ensure a good connection wont hurt.
- Some early DNA 40 devices were reported to switch back to normal mode even though they had been set to temp mode. So just be mindful and check occasionally to make sure you're still running temp mode.
- Temp coils have been reported to run best around 0.12 - 0.18 ohms. A 9 wrap 28g Nickle build on 3mm ID will put you around 0.15
Good luck and i hope this helps
Thank you, very important and helpful info.
Please take note of the commment made by @WHeunis !
If you are going to use it on a DNA 40 or any temp limiting board:
- The coil needs to be a spaced coil. Try ensure that all spaces are even. A trick ive picked up on how to wrap an evenly spaced coil, is to wrap a paralell coil and then remove the one coil. This will ensure your wraps are evenly spaced.
- Make sure that your wire is making a good connection to your posts. If you're building on a deck with normal posts/screws be careful here as you might end up snapping the leads when tightening down. If you're using a device that traps wire, a extra wrap around to ensure a good connection wont hurt.
- Some early DNA 40 devices were reported to switch back to normal mode even though they had been set to temp mode. So just be mindful and check occasionally to make sure you're still running temp mode.
- Temp coils have been reported to run best around 0.12 - 0.18 ohms. A 9 wrap 28g Nickle build on 3mm ID will put you around 0.15
Good luck and i hope this helps
Thank you so much. It helps.
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