The Serpent Mini 22 and 25 Build Thread

[Darryn Du Plessis]

Could it be you need to use some cotton gammon and not cotton bacon.
Seriously - I had a similar experience when using too little cotton. I think the juice then burns onto the coil and gives the taste
Oops forgot @rabbitneko

# if you have stainless steel, even if it burns on the Coil, it is still grilled delicous for you

 

[Darryn Du Plessis]

Why cant they make a tank with 10ml extra reservoirs somewhere on the sides or something - without impacting the flavour

Like long range fuel tanks....

Wonder why that is not being incorporated into these juice guzzlers

PS - am on my third tank of @Sickboy77 's CID and am liking it a lot in this tank

P.S. That is TOTALLY the reason the Geekvape Avocadoe's exist!

 

[Spydro]

P.S. That is TOTALLY the reason the Geekvape Avocadoe's exist!

Agree. If it wasn't for my 6 Avocado's that I bought early in my usage of TC Mods, I probably would have gone back to only my mech Reos.

 

[kev mac]

That approx 0.12Ω dual build is WAY TOO LOW for a mech Noisy Cricket @kev mac... DON'T DO IT!!!
In fact, never do any build on mechs unless you fully understand ohms law AND run the numbers yourself.

Battery Voltage ÷ Ohms coil resistance = AMPS X Battery Voltage = Watts
(8.4 ÷ 0.12 = 70 X 8.4 = 588)

No 18650 battery can take the load from this dual build in a dual series mech mod.

Thanks for your concern. I have not done this and was advised by mahir to use 20g only on my SMPL and I am aware to keep Cricket builds around the .40 ohm mark or higher.Happy for the reminder as I haven't done much with the mechs lately.

 

[Waine]

I stick between 0.16 and 0.22 ohms with an Good RDA, even take it to 0.30 with a nice long 510. I use only a Sony VTC6 in a Mech with 20 Ka. Don't recommend going lower that 16, at best.

Back on topic....

I don't recommend 20 Ka on the SM25. Tried it. Too hot, messy, burnt, charcoal taste, leaking....Don't even waste your time.


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[AlphaDog]

Guys, so i just tried out the dual coil deck, and man is it good. Sorry if this has been asked before, do you need that metal wick ring? I removed mine and wicking has been fantastic. I only vape 80vg juice btw and it keeps up really well. I think this tank is now better than my aromamizer v1 flavour wise...

 

[Wayne Swanepoel]

So i joined the serpent clan and have been trying to get this thing wicked properly.

My Build consists of

26 ga kanthal A1
3mm id
4.5 - 5 wraps
Unspaced
.08 ohms
vaping between 35 and 40w on a sig 213
Bowtie CBV2 wick
70/30 Chilled pineapple fro All day vapes

Now my problem is i am getting dry hits every now and then, i cannot take more than about a second and a half of a lung hit or the burnt taste will come through. The flavour is fairly muted until i undo the top cap and release the airlock.

Any advise on the build?

 

[haruspex]

@Wayne Swanepoel see page 17 where I posted my build and wicking. I also vape on 70/30 ejuice and have no dry hits or issues...
https://www.ecigssa.co.za/the-serpent-mini-22-and-25-build-thread.t31068/page-17

I know there is alot of advice and build / wicking photos that will help guide you to find the perfect build

 

[SmokeyJoe]

So i joined the serpent clan and have been trying to get this thing wicked properly.

My Build consists of

26 ga kanthal A1
3mm id
4.5 - 5 wraps
Unspaced
.08 ohms
vaping between 35 and 40w on a sig 213
Bowtie CBV2 wick
70/30 Chilled pineapple fro All day vapes

Now my problem is i am getting dry hits every now and then, i cannot take more than about a second and a half of a lung hit or the burnt taste will come through. The flavour is fairly muted until i undo the top cap and release the airlock.

Any advise on the build?

Few things that i learnt from my SM22:
1.) Invert your coil so that the posts/legs are at the bottom, not top. You will need to wrap your coil counter clockwise, not clockwise to achieve this
2.) On my SM22, it likes cotton more tight than loose inside the coil
3.) Ensure that you properly fluff out the cotton tails before priming them
4.) The cotton tails should just touch the deck
5.) I prefer spaced coils, just found it wicks better

 

[SmokeyJoe]

So i joined the serpent clan and have been trying to get this thing wicked properly.

My Build consists of

26 ga kanthal A1
3mm id
4.5 - 5 wraps
Unspaced
.08 ohms
vaping between 35 and 40w on a sig 213
Bowtie CBV2 wick
70/30 Chilled pineapple fro All day vapes

Now my problem is i am getting dry hits every now and then, i cannot take more than about a second and a half of a lung hit or the burnt taste will come through. The flavour is fairly muted until i undo the top cap and release the airlock.

Any advise on the build?

What i also saw in your pic, is that your coil legs protrudes a bit, this might also create a hot spot that will burn the cotton:

 

[Wayne Swanepoel]

What i also saw in your pic, is that your coil legs protrudes a bit, this might also create a hot spot that will burn the cotton:

So in other words space them out a but more,

I have been wicking tight but with enough give that it doesn't move the coil whilst pulling through, if that makes any sense at all

Thanks for the responses ill do another build in a bit and report back. quiet afternoons at work are an awesome time for honing skills

 

[Faheem777]

So in other words space them out a but more,

I have been wicking tight but with enough give that it doesn't move the coil whilst pulling through, if that makes any sense at all

Thanks for the responses ill do another build in a bit and report back. quiet afternoons at work are an awesome time for honing skills

Are you cutting off between half 2/3 of your wick tails? Also, my wick tails do not touch the base of the juice hole, I cut them at around the halfway point of the juice hole. Found this works the best for me. Close airflow, fill up juice, tighten top cap a little, turn tank upside down, tighten fully, thereafter you good to go with no airlock issues.

 

[Wayne Swanepoel]

Are you cutting off between half 2/3 of your wick tails? Also, my wick tails do not touch the base of the juice hole, I cut them at around the halfway point of the juice hole. Found this works the best for me. Close airflow, fill up juice, tighten top cap a little, turn tank upside down, tighten fully, thereafter you good to go with no airlock issues.

Howsit, yes i have now done another build. i had a dual coil in my kit i built a while ago. comes in at .4 ohms. cut the tails shorter so the sit about half way down. Seems MUCH better. Yet to get a dry hit and can take rather long hits

Thanks for the advice

 

[Mender31]

Help... my build deck is stuck and cannot remove. Even somehow broke the tank glass... does not want to separate.... to clarify, the part that has the 510 connection is stuck to the part that directs juice into the build deck

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[Mender31]

Serpent mini 25

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[Stosta]

Help... my build deck is stuck and cannot remove. Even somehow broke the tank glass... does not want to separate.... to clarify, the part that has the 510 connection is stuck to the part that directs juice into the build deck

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So the build deck is stuck, or the piece that goes over the build deck?

 

[Mender31]

No the build deck... I'll send a photo

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[Mender31]

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[Kalashnikov]

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Get some pliars on the top. Put tissue so it doesn't scratch and stick a thin screw driver through the air holes and twist

 

[jpzx12rturbo]

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I might be mistaken but Thats not the build deck….
its the cover that goes over the build deck.

Pliers with some type of padding like tissue,Rubber or cardboard
Or soak it with warm water..

 

[Mender31]

It's the cover and the bottom part that cant be separated. The build deck I know just pops out of the bottom part but don't know what the bottom part is called... 510 connector

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[Stosta]

It's the cover and the bottom part that cant be separated. The build deck I know just pops out of the bottom part but don't know what the bottom part is called... 510 connector

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I think if we're looking for names I would go with the chimney piece being stuck to the base, but what's important is how to get the thing off I suppose

Getting tanks deconstructed is one of my pet peeves, as more often than not they are way too tight out the factory. You can put it in the freezer for a good 12 hours, but that has only worked for me once. The idea is that the metal constricts and therefore gives a little more play room on the threads.

Your best bet is what @Kalashnikov suggested, get some pliers and cover them with something to prevent scratching, and get a pair of vice grips for the base and do the same thing. I usually wait till I get to a stage where I'm so ****** off that I don't care if I damage it, and then Bam! It comes undone no problem. In saying that I still haven't had any success getting the glass off my SM25, but I can't remember how much effort I have put into getting it off

 

[Kalashnikov]

Also to add once its off. Make sure you tighten that chimney very tight on the top cap so that it always comes apart without the base still attached. I used to over tighten the chimney to the top cap cause thats the part you dont really want seperating

 

[Mender31]

I found somewhere on the internet that it's a possibility that my wicks might have gotten caught in the threading... if that's the case there have been no record of it ever being removable... I literally got this tank on tuesday and the mod also and now I've done this. Really sucks...

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[Mender31]

It cane loose!!!! Just had it in cold water with ice for couple minutes and buckled down and finally got it loose!! Hallelujah

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