@Andre Thanks. Here is a local supplier for Howard's:
http://www.tools4wood.co.za/product/butcher-block-cutting-board-oil/
http://www.tools4wood.co.za/product/butcher-block-cutting-board-oil/
Woodvil Care and Maintenance
- Thread starter Christos
- Start date
Just wanted to find out if any of the woodvil users experience heat from the positive contract point that is just above the feed tube.
I use noalax weekly and clean the positive pin as well as the positive contact point weekly but the situation seems to be deteriorating rapidly.
I unscrewed the bottom feed pin and cleaned it but I'm still getting excessive heat IF I put my finger on the contract plate during a depression of the button.
The situation started when I put a dual coil on the nuppin at 0.3 ohms.
I've subsequently gone back to the cyclone at 0.5 ohms single coil but the problem persists.
Any advice is welcomed.
I'm starting to think I need to replace the positive contact pin and plate.
Does @Oupa stock parts for the woodvil?
I use noalax weekly and clean the positive pin as well as the positive contact point weekly but the situation seems to be deteriorating rapidly.
I unscrewed the bottom feed pin and cleaned it but I'm still getting excessive heat IF I put my finger on the contract plate during a depression of the button.
The situation started when I put a dual coil on the nuppin at 0.3 ohms.
I've subsequently gone back to the cyclone at 0.5 ohms single coil but the problem persists.
Any advice is welcomed.
I'm starting to think I need to replace the positive contact pin and plate.
Does @Oupa stock parts for the woodvil?
It's very strange indeed.
Happens with all three cyclones.
I'm thinking tomorrow I should build a 1.2 ohm kanthal coil because I have been using SS.
I just re coiled all my attys a moment ago.
The heat is definately less from .3 to .5 ohms but it's still enough to burn the fingertips.
@Oupa can i order woodvil spares on the next pre order?
I'm so very bummed about this.
I just discovered the heat is also making the battery hot because of the close proximity. Just that one spot where the battery is closest to the plate.
I'm sadly going to have to rest the woodvil until I figure this one out. Don't want to take any chances.
Luckily I recently got a backup device.
I just discovered the heat is also making the battery hot because of the close proximity. Just that one spot where the battery is closest to the plate.
I'm sadly going to have to rest the woodvil until I figure this one out. Don't want to take any chances.
Luckily I recently got a backup device.
Can you post a annotated photo?I'm so very bummed about this.
I just discovered the heat is also making the battery hot because of the close proximity. Just that one spot where the battery is closest to the plate.
I'm sadly going to have to rest the woodvil until I figure this one out. Don't want to take any chances.
Luckily I recently got a backup device.
Hah, so I just tested mine. On the Purple Heart - not heat at all there. On the Zebra - as hot as hell.
Have been experiencing problems with the Zebra. Autofired (forgot to lock the button, which pressed against the side of the holder) in the cup holder in the car. Maybe some insulating material got damaged.
Think I shall retire the Zebra for the time being and send it to Reosmods for a service. Or can you service it @Genosmate?
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I will do so when I get a moment.
I suspect the 0.3 ohms build may have been the starting point but I did experience this a while back and on disassemble the 510 pin that connects to the feed the (just unscrewing the pin inside the woodvil) revealed a white gunky buildup that was affecting connectivity.
I suspect it's more a high resistance issue inside that it is a faulty insulator.
Thanks, shall check that out.
If you find the contact points to look like they are deteriorating in terms of carbon build up then I think it's safe to assume that our woodvils need new contract pins and contact plates.
I think the white stuff on the screw threads where that tube nipple screws on is liquid plumber's tape. Read somewhere on ECF that Rob now puts that on to prevent leaking there.
EDIT: So I took it apart @Christos. Yeah, the white stuff is liquid plumber's tape - saw your picture earlier in this thread as well. Contact pin was still good and clean, but replaced it anyhow. Contact plate had lots of black on it - probably from that autofiring episode. Came off easily with an eraser, bar one little scar underneath where the pin strikes the plate I think. Used HRH's 4 step buffer thingie to get it better. Put it all together again. Hits as if new now. No heat when touching the contact plate when firing. Thank you for putting me on the path. Hope you get yours sorted. No service required @Genosmate.
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Now reading that made me a little happier today.
Ive got the scar where it makes contact. I did try an eraser yesterday but the slight carbon buildup is still there. I will take ownership of HRH's nail compartment today as I know she has a few of those 4 in one buffing blocks.
Will give that a try tonight and report back.
I did clean all the liquid plumbers tape and it doesnt leak. Perhaps she just needed a rest?
Great stuff. When I started filing off that scar wondered by myself if the contact plate is also gold plated and I was busy taking off all the gold plating, but I think only the pin and spring are gold plated. The plate I think is brass or copper.
One of my metal Reos had a little moisture coming from where that nipple screws on. Could not find liquid plumber's tape anywhere. Used a minute piece of the normal stuff in the end - worked a charm.
So after getting inspiration from @Andre I asked HRH for a nail buffer which she gladly supplied and has allowed to to keep in my vape collection. My son has chewed the one end so it was being marked for disposal but gladly she didn't throw it away yet.
Vape mail I guess.
Into the repairs. Contact points for @Genosmate before any work done.
You can see the scars so to speak on the contract plate.
I had a spare reo contact so I cut it and drilled it to fit the woodvil.
Also buffing happened on the contact plate and not the contract pin.
The final result.
I haven't tried the .3ohm build in the nuppin again just the .5 ohm cyclone but I'm happy to report that it's all working as it should again.
I was really bummed for most of the day as I felt remorse for thinking I only really needed one reo and I even started looking at available tanks as backups because reos require patience to aquire.
That being said I was reminded of the sadness I felt before when my favourite mods died and ended in the bin.
This repair cost me a positive contact and some sweet taking HRH but I'm reminded what a wonderful mod the reo is as it's not really broken. It just needs some TLC occasionally.
Vape mail I guess.
Into the repairs. Contact points for @Genosmate before any work done.
You can see the scars so to speak on the contract plate.
I had a spare reo contact so I cut it and drilled it to fit the woodvil.
Also buffing happened on the contact plate and not the contract pin.
The final result.
I haven't tried the .3ohm build in the nuppin again just the .5 ohm cyclone but I'm happy to report that it's all working as it should again.
I was really bummed for most of the day as I felt remorse for thinking I only really needed one reo and I even started looking at available tanks as backups because reos require patience to aquire.
That being said I was reminded of the sadness I felt before when my favourite mods died and ended in the bin.
This repair cost me a positive contact and some sweet taking HRH but I'm reminded what a wonderful mod the reo is as it's not really broken. It just needs some TLC occasionally.
Oh happy days! And OMG that is a beautiful Woodvil!
Yes indeed! I believe she came from a big loving family.
She just got a bit lonely today
Great stuff. I was amazed that so little TLC could makes such a big difference.
All around the 510 there seems to be this burning effect taking place. I have found there is usually juice in the but Its not from the atty. It leaks out of the brass portion all around it and it's discolouring/charring the wood. Is this normal?
P.S its tint to re coil as I've been running the same coil for over 6 weeks.
Also for those with OCD I found the spare screws from vapedecadence work well unless you are using 2 new screws and then they make contact. Only or screw was stripped.
P.S its tint to re coil as I've been running the same coil for over 6 weeks.
Also for those with OCD I found the spare screws from vapedecadence work well unless you are using 2 new screws and then they make contact. Only or screw was stripped.
Looks to be juice that has leaked out and then cooked from heat from the atty. Does it wipe off (looks like you have a poly finish to this mod)?
Could you maybe take a shot of the 510 with the atty removed?
Could you maybe take a shot of the 510 with the atty removed?
Doesn't wipe out. Pics to follow as soon as Im back upstairs.
Here ya go.
One with the 510 pulled out slightly and one with the 510 flat. Yes it's polly coated.
Apologies for the bad lighting but the power went off again. Last week power went out at midnight Wednesday and only came back on Friday. *sigh*
Edited and attached. Sorry was busy swearing eskom under my breath and I forgot the pics.
I hate that city power never responds to my faults unless I ask if it's load shedding. They are quick to respond that there is no load shedding but the blackouts are occurring roughly the same time each week and last equally long.
I guess Im just annoyed because I was punching in credit card details for my valley vapour purchase when the power cut and now the concentrate will probably be out of stock firstly when the power returns and secondly I was adjusting my basket for 2 hours so I'll have to redo my order and hopefully I'll remember what I decided to go with.
P.S its raining so I'm in no mood to go turn the generator on and Im also trying to be considerate of my neighbours so I only run the generator after 8AM till 8PM when we do need it.
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