Dreaded airlock Problem

Schnappie

Schnappie

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This seems to be the achilles heal of topfill tanks

No matter what tank I use this problem seems to haunt me wherever I go.
At first I thought this is limited to ceramic coils only after getting airlock problems on the target pro, melo 3 mini, I just S with the ceramic coils.

I then got the joyetech ultimo and after a few weeks same problem on the ceramics, but then the clapton coils also started to suffer this same fate. I also have the ijoy tornado nano now and the bubbles popped out too slowly, loosening the cap it now bubbles like a dream.

Like with the melo 3 mini and ccells I now am forced to vape with the tornado nano also with the topcap semi open. Which is a massive pain in the crack quite frankly.

Anyone else suffering from this problem? This sux, not having everything screwed tight is surely not the way to vape while on the go!?!?!
 
hwsit

i find that the best thing to do is to close off the airflow. then open the tank to fill it.once its filled i close the tank and then open the airflow. then take in a decent hit immediately.

if there is any gurgling then i place a tissue around the airflow and fire and blow INTO the tank gentle. after that its all good to go.

hope it helps.
 
Advice?. Why yes. get an RDTA like Limitless, Coil art, AVO or Fuji GTA.

RTAs will always suffer from airlocks, at least that's what my personal experience over 2 and a half years and multiple RTAs has taught me.
 
Ian_F said:
Morning

I'm having the same issue on my new Merlin Mini RTA.

Tried the above trick and it works 1/4 times ...

Any other advice?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

The merlin needs a lot of cotton to prevent leaking. Have a look at this vid...
 
Ian_F said:
Morning

I'm having the same issue on my new Merlin Mini RTA.

Tried the above trick and it works 1/4 times ...

Any other advice?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
That's weird. Mine doesn't airlock at all.
Do you get dry hits when it gets airlocked?
 
Sprint said:
Advice?. Why yes. get an RDTA like Limitless, Coil art, AVO or Fuji GTA.

RTAs will always suffer from airlocks, at least that's what my personal experience over 2 and a half years and multiple RTAs has taught me.
Click to expand...
Hate it hey
 
try this....

Rinse the atty out with hot water and leave to air dry

Do a fresh build and juice up your wicks to 99% saturated. Assemble and then fill the tank right to the top.

The second it's closed take a nice big inhale, there may be a few tiny drops of juice that was in the grooves or on the airflow.
 
shaunnadan said:
try this....

Rinse the atty out with hot water and leave to air dry

Do a fresh build and juice up your wicks to 99% saturated. Assemble and then fill the tank right to the top.

The second it's closed take a nice big inhale, there may be a few tiny drops of juice that was in the grooves or on the airflow.
Click to expand...
Could it be location? Sometimes altitude may play a role in causing airlock much like how Ccell coils work great in the US but 99% of them fail here in SA
 
shaunnadan said:
try this....

Rinse the atty out with hot water and leave to air dry

Do a fresh build and juice up your wicks to 99% saturated. Assemble and then fill the tank right to the top.

The second it's closed take a nice big inhale, there may be a few tiny drops of juice that was in the grooves or on the airflow.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I'll try that this afternoon. I figured that my last resort was to rip apart the block and replace the rings I fried ... a double shot of vape would do that ...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Ian_F said:
Thanks. I'll try that this afternoon. I figured that my last resort was to rip apart the block and replace the rings I fried ... a double shot of vape would do that ...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Hahahahaha.... good quote :)
 
Ian_F said:
Thanks. I'll try that this afternoon. I figured that my last resort was to rip apart the block and replace the rings I fried ... a double shot of vape would do that ...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

"Granny vaping, not double-clutching like you should."
 
Doesn't mater if it's by an inch or a mile, winnings winning...

DT

Seems like that solved it for now


Now for my next trick, I'm going to dry hit it like there's no tomorrow


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Ian_F said:
Doesn't mater if it's by an inch or a mile, winnings winning...

DT

Seems like that solved it for now


Now for my next trick, I'm going to dry hit it like there's no tomorrow


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I think you made a typo there....

"Doesn't mater if it's by an inch or a mile, wicking is wicking..."
 
Can filling the tank when it is hot from vaping vs filling it when it is at room temperature have an effect???
 
I do not understand this airlock problem. Even less that loosening the cap makes more bubbles appear. RTA tanks rely on the so called airlock to stop from flooding and leaking. As wicks suck up juice, the "vacuum" in the tank increases and when the internal to external pressure differential becomes larger than the resistance required for air to enter the tank via the wicking holes, outside air will enter which we observe as bubbles. Reducing this pressure differential by loosening the top cap can therefore not increase the amount of air entering via the wicking holes, therefore this practice can not lead to more bubbles.

As mentioned, what is stopping air from entering the conventional way is that the resistance to air entering via the wicking holes is to great to be overcome by the pressure differential which is in turn powered by the osmoses forces driving the wicking process.

My theory is thus that the root cause is to be found in the way these tanks are wicked or juice that is to thick to wick properly. In cases where I experienced this problem, I reduced the amount of wick in the ports and made sure to fluff wick ends up properly before inserting them. If this is happening with factory coils, then I am at a loss for an explanation...

Hope this helps...
 
Raindance said:
I do not understand this airlock problem. Even less that loosening the cap makes more bubbles appear. RTA tanks rely on the so called airlock to stop from flooding and leaking. As wicks suck up juice, the "vacuum" in the tank increases and when the internal to external pressure differential becomes larger than the resistance required for air to enter the tank via the wicking holes, outside air will enter which we observe as bubbles. Reducing this pressure differential by loosening the top cap can therefore not increase the amount of air entering via the wicking holes, therefore this practice can not lead to more bubbles.

As mentioned, what is stopping air from entering the conventional way is that the resistance to air entering via the wicking holes is to great to be overcome by the pressure differential which is in turn powered by the osmoses forces driving the wicking process.

My theory is thus that the root cause is to be found in the way these tanks are wicked or juice that is to thick to wick properly. In cases where I experienced this problem, I reduced the amount of wick in the ports and made sure to fluff wick ends up properly before inserting them. If this is happening with factory coils, then I am at a loss for an explanation...

Hope this helps...
Click to expand...
While you unscrew the cap before the vacuum is broken it increases because the oring still seals for half the caps journey while unscrewing.

So

1. It still seals
2. While unscrewing you are effectively pulling the vacuum upwards, pulling more air through the wicking holes...

Until

3. The oring seal is broken on topcap.

Sent from my SM-A700F using Tapatalk
 
@Rob Fisher I am going out on a limb here, but I have been through all the ceramic tanks including the original target, target pro, ultimo, cerabis all of them.

Wouldn't you say from the beginning with the non topfill tanks our struggle has always been the airlock and not actually bad coils? Mayhaps the hex ccells had a harder time dealing with the airlock than the ones with the black o-ring?
 
Schnappie said:
@Rob Fisher I am going out on a limb here, but I have been through all the ceramic tanks including the original target, target pro, ultimo, cerabis all of them.

Wouldn't you say from the beginning with the non topfill tanks our struggle has always been the airlock and not actually bad coils? Mayhaps the hex ccells had a harder time dealing with the airlock than the ones with the black o-ring?
Click to expand...

That may well be the case @Schnappie... never really investigated to that degree... but the airlock issue is better in some tanks and worse in others so it's probably a combination of tank design, top fill and the coils.
 
I have a theory that's proven on the Melo 3 mini.

Over tightening the top cap causes airlock issues.
What my dad and I found was to tighten it by gripping the driptip only, once the driptip starts turning by itself, that's it.
No leaks, no airlock.

Worked for us. Try it


Sent from my iPhone 7+ using Tapatalk
 
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