Drilling Airflow gone wrong

[VandaL]

So I purchased a 2mm steel drill bit today and decided to try increase the bore on airflow for my Fogger V5. Bought the drill bit from Checkers cuz I was going past the hardware section and thought HEY why don't I try this...
So drill bit cost R4.99 for a set of 2 (bad choice).

Drilled out one airhole just fine, looked clean etc etc. Start drilling the other airhole and WADDAYAKNOW the bit BREAKS in the airhole.

Tried to grip it with some needle nose plier, can't get a grip it's too small. Tried Tweezers , manage to get a SLIGHT grip but being that this is steel on steel tweezers ain't gonna move JACK

Could anyone help with idea's on how to remove this crap

I haven't looked at the deck but I doubt that would make a difference because this piece is stuck pretty much at the start of the airhole

 

[Gazzacpt]

Yeah on steel you need a good quality bit and a drill press. I did a few russian air flow holes and used FEW and Somta tool bits from a engineering shop.

To solve your problem now you could try shatter the bit a little bit at a time with a needle point punch. Don't know what damage it will do to the bore though.

 

[VandaL]

Yeah on steel you need a good quality bit and a drill press. I did a few russian air flow holes and used FEW and Somta tool bits from a engineering shop.

To solve your problem now you could try shatter the bit a little bit at a time with a needle point punch. Don't know what damage it will do to the bore though.

Sounds like the punch would pretty much wreck it So annoyed I really love this atty

 

[kimbo]

well an extraction tool work on a 2mm drill?

 

[Gazzacpt]

Or get a 2mm cobalt bit and chase the broken bit through. Also mixed results with this method sometimes lucky sometimes not.

 

[Arthster]

I Spoke to my dad on this one (Retired factory Engineer / Boiler maker / Machine designer) one thing you can try. Seeing as the drill but is crappy steel and the device is proper stainless. Try running it under supper hot water with the drill bit facing down. If your lucky the crappy drill wont have the same expansion rate as the steel and could potentially just drop out (If your lucky) or you might need some persuasion with a long nose or tweezers while the stainless is hot this could make the extraction easier. Next option is someone with a lathe that can drill out the crappy 2mm with a decent 2mm else a 1.5 mm followed by an easy out...

 

[VandaL]

I Spoke to my dad on this one (Retired factory Engineer / Boiler maker / Machine designer) one thing you can try. Seeing as the drill but is crappy steel and the device is proper stainless. Try running it under supper hot water with the drill bit facing down. If your lucky the crappy drill wont have the same expansion rate as the steel and could potentially just drop out (If your lucky) or you might need some persuasion with a long nose or tweezers while the stainless is hot this could make the extraction easier. Next option is someone with a lathe that can drill out the crappy 2mm with a decent 2mm else a 1.5 mm followed by an easy out...

Will give this a try tomorrow thanks a lot for this, hope it works

 

[Alex]

I had the same thing happen to me a few months back on a kayfun airhole. What worked for me was to use about an 8cm length of electric fence cable I had lying around. I reverse twisted the cable in my drill, and then with the wire fixed into the drill chuck, pushed/forced it into the hole, around the broken drill bit. placed the drill in reverse, and let it grip in and do it's thing. Fortunately it worked for me. And I won't mention all the other things I tried before that, which didn't work.

 

[Arthster]

I hope so as well. I really hope the warm water trick works. I have seen my dad pull wheel bearings out of a wheel hub with his pinky after applying some gentle heat in the right places.

Good luck and may the force be with you.

 

[jtgrey]

I had the same thing happen to me a few months back on a kayfun airhole. What worked for me was to use about an 8cm length of electric fence cable I had lying around. I reverse twisted the cable in my drill, and then with the wire fixed into the drill chuck, pushed/forced it into the hole, around the broken drill bit. placed the drill in reverse, and let it grip in and do it's thing. Fortunately it worked for me. And I won't mention all the other things I tried before that, which didn't work.

@Alex lol , I still have and use that kayfun !!

 

[Alex]

@Alex lol , I still have and use that kayfun !!

It's been electrified

 

[VandaL]

Thought I'd try remove it one more time, so I took apart the tank, but as I remove the pyrex glass it slips out my hand THWAP on the floor and now I have a plugged airhole and badly cracked tank

Just gonna throw it away now , a brand new authentic costs $24.99
Guess it was just one of those days

 

[WHeunis]

Thought I'd try remove it one more time, so I took apart the tank, but as I remove the pyrex glass it slips out my hand THWAP on the floor and now I have a plugged airhole and badly cracked tank

Just gonna throw it away now , a brand new authentic costs $24.99
Guess it was just one of those days

Plugged hole.
Cracked tank.
Loadshedding.
...
...
All dressed up and NOW the world decides to go to hell...
I get ya though. Some days just have your name on it. In red ink if you're lucky, in blood if you're not.

Edit-in-afterthought: You ever try to redo your coil after a dry/burnt/shitty wick accident, and the power goes out just as you finish pulling the original build out?
HAVE YOU EVER TRIED TO COIL AND WICK BY CANDLELIGHT?!?!?!
HULK SMAAAAAASHHH!!!

 

[Alex]

Plugged hole.
Cracked tank.
Loadshedding.
...
...
All dressed up and NOW the world decides to go to hell...
I get ya though. Some days just have your name on it. In red ink if you're lucky, in blood if you're not.

Edit-in-afterthought: You ever try to redo your coil after a dry/burnt/shitty wick accident, and the power goes out just as you finish pulling the original build out?
HAVE YOU EVER TRIED TO COIL AND WICK BY CANDLELIGHT?!?!?!
HULK SMAAAAAASHHH!!!

First rule of vaping.

Backup device, always.

 

[Yiannaki]

First rule of vaping.

Backup device, always.

Amen!

 

[VandaL]

So got these two, I hope their good, they were like R30 each

 

[Gazzacpt]

The alpen one is very good but its brittle so go slow and straight, if you bend it a bit it might snap. Also its very grabby so clamp everything down well. The Ruwag one is not bad and has a bit of flex.

 

[VandaL]

I tried drilling out the Orchid V4 with the 2.5mm bit. It broke, went super slow and had it firm on a clamp. The bit was struggling to punch through. The good news is I managed to get the piece out using that hot water trick.

Spoke to a friend who does steel fabrication, he said that for this grade of stainless you need an HSS bit. Said the Alpen shouldn't have any issues with drilling atty's but the Ruwag would always give a problem.

 

[Arthster]

I tried drilling out the Orchid V4 with the 2.5mm bit. It broke, went super slow and had it firm on a clamp. The bit was struggling to punch through. The good news is I managed to get the piece out using that hot water trick.

Spoke to a friend who does steel fabrication, he said that for this grade of stainless you need an HSS bit. Said the Alpen shouldn't have any issues with drilling atty's but the Ruwag would always give a problem.

Glad you got the bit out ok though. I take it that the Orchid is still usable after the experiment though?

 

[VandaL]

Glad you got the bit out ok though. I take it that the Orchid is still usable after the experiment though?

Works fine but now the Airflow isn't even. No biggie still tastes great

 

[Arthster]

Works fine but now the Airflow isn't even. No biggie still tastes great

Its not uneven its a unique RDA. Customized.

 

[Arthster]

The big thing with drilling or cutting stainless steel is the speed and the lubricant used. The tools used also plays a major part but slow steady well lubricated drilling or cutting can get the job done with lower grade steel bits as well. I have managed to drill one of my stainless RDA's using normal Bosch drill bits. but I also used quite a bit of cutting oil and it took awhile to cut even though it was only about 3mm. If you over do the speed you also risk burning the stainless and that will give you the blue purple burn marks.

 

[VandaL]

The big thing with drilling or cutting stainless steel is the speed and the lubricant used. The tools used also plays a major part but slow steady well lubricated drilling or cutting can get the job done with lower grade steel bits as well. I have managed to drill one of my stainless RDA's using normal Bosch drill bits. but I also used quite a bit of cutting oil and it took awhile to cut even though it was only about 3mm. If you over do the speed you also risk burning the stainless and that will give you the blue purple burn marks.

I went super slow, my mate also said I need to use tapping fluid.

 

[Arthster]

That will definitely do, slow well lubricated bits.

reading that... also reminds me of other things. Just not sure what exactly.