Guys need help

[sabrefm1]

Started building a new coil on the subtank mini and started getting short errors and low resistance on istick 30w. Now im not sure if its the atomizer or the battery.

I tried the subtank on another battery and it works but i keep getting low ohm builds. But it fires 100% no issues. Now the istick 30 cant go lower than 0.4 ohm and each build i get is lower than that no matter what i try.

Its frustrating, when i manage to get a high build on twisted 28 at 0.7 ohm then it fires for a second and shorts on screen saying atomizer short.

If i just figure out if its the subtank or the battery il know what to replace.

Ps im in cpt and going to go on a dry have no spare hardware

 

[Nimatek]

What wire are you using, how many wraps and what size diameter?

Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk

 

[Silver]

Hi @sabrefm1
Sorry to hear about your troubles
Dont worry I am sure we can all put our heads together to try help you fix the issue.

Perhaps if you can take a picture for us of your build we may be able to spot something

 

[sabrefm1]

Sorry guys but i dont think prob is the build if i use my std build 26g 5/6 wrap i usually get 0.5 ohm if not 0.4 ohm every single time for the past couple of months.

Now since today i get a short on the battery and its a constant short error displayed on screen

 

[Silver]

Maybe something is shorting out in the base - just a guess from an inexperienced subtank mini user

Calling @Yiannaki and @Rowan Francis
Can you guys maybe give Sabrefm1 a hand or an idea

 

[Nimatek]

Clean the 510 connector of both the istick and the tank with alcohol swab. Could be buildup that you aren't seeing.

Just to understand correctly, is it firing perfectly fine on another mod ?

 

[sabrefm1]

Cleaned the connections already. Havent tried any mod on the istick as my cousin only has tanks with 0.3ohm coils which is too low for the istick 30.

 

[Rowan Francis]

On the old istick 30 it's normally the bottom rubber under the 510 pin if it's worn it will start shorting, check the rubber

 

[sabrefm1]

yeah think i checked that, also took my battery apart see no issues. if there is anyone that can test my gear will be appreciated

 

[Nimatek]

where abouts are you ?

 

[Paulie]

If there a short then follow the following steps:

1) Check that your legs of your wires are not touching anywhere on the base or terminals next to one another.
2) Check your post screws are nicely tightened.
3) Check that the rebuildable base is on the base tight.
4) The bottom screw on the atty is tight and is on properly.
5) The 510 pin on the mod is not damaged.

If all the above fail do a new build and see if it works.
If the above has all been done then take it back to the vendor and try get some one else to look at it or post pics so we can see your build and setup so we can help you more.

Hope this helps.

 

[sabrefm1]

cape town southern suburbs

 

[argief]

With the subtank, the bottom screw of the rba, screws into the rba. One build pillar is casted, the other pillar is held by the bottom screw. Unscrew and clean. There is a plastic spacer held in place by the bottom screw and essentially prevents the two pillars on the base to short. Ensure everything is cleaned properly then reassemble and be sure to tightnen the screw! Lose screw will result in the ohm jumping because of inadequate contact.

Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk

 

[sabrefm1]

I actually done that yesterday but knew about the rba deck a few months ago had the issue the pin wasnt tight. But see these pics. This is a 28g twisted and should give me above 0,5 ohm more like 0.7ohm and no wires touching but still get the atomizer short.
And pic of pin in battery looks ok

 

[Nimatek]

on the 2nd image your one leg is sticking out beyond the screw. Trim that as well as it might be touching the RBA cover.
In the TFV4 and Crown the spacing is minuscule so one needs to cut very close to the screw.

 

[sabrefm1]

on the 2nd image your one leg is sticking out beyond the screw. Trim that as well as it might be touching the RBA cover.
In the TFV4 and Crown the spacing is minuscule so one needs to cut very close to the screw.

but im actually test firing with the rba cover off tho, so shouldnt make a difference. i never yet got to the point where i can successfully wick a coil

 

[Paulie]

but im actually test firing with the rba cover off tho, so shouldnt make a difference. i never yet got to the point where i can successfully wick a coil

If i was you i would do what @argief said cause it sounds like there is a problem with the posts and the base.

 

[sabrefm1]

If i was you i would do what @argief said cause it sounds like there is a problem with the posts and the base.

i done that last night.

 

[Paulie]

i done that last night.

Then you probably need to take it back to the vendor so they can test another tank on there to see if the device or tank is faulty. Im sure they would be happy to help.

 

[sabrefm1]

yeah will see what i can do. coz its long out of warranty got it last year Jan 2015

 

[Paulie]

yeah will see what i can do. coz its long out of warranty got it last year Jan 2015

Hopefully they help if they dont keep us posted and maby we can help more!

 

[Clouder]

I also think it might be the post connector on the bottom of the RBA?

 

[sabrefm1]

I also think it might be the post connector on the bottom of the RBA?

best way is too test on another battery

 

[Clouder]

Yes, or try your tank on another mod

 

[sabrefm1]

Have a look at those close up pics u will see that the plastic gasket is not allowing the flowting post to touch anywhere