Kangertech subtank

I also tend to take +-5 to 6 second lunge hits, which heats up the Kanger real fast.
First thing I did, that I think helps, is put on a glass Drip Tip, which should run cooler than the S/S one it came with (Which I havent even used yet, I like Glass)

Yeah i tried the nautilus drip tip but that doesnt fit. So i will look for another one. I saw some frosted glass ones that looked awesome


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I subohm at around 0,5-0,7
Cant stand warm vapour, so I've basically skipped anything where I cant build the coils.

The heat goes down with thicker wire, so while 30g 0,5 ohm at 22watts is too hot for me, 28g with the same remainding variables cools it down.

EDIT- note though, thicker wire needs more watts.
 
Consider making your own coil and place it lower down than the stock coil comes fitted. This definitely cools down the vape.

Also, a 2 puff drip tip with air flow helps cool the vape as well.


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So i got a subtank today to try the sub ohm vibes. From those who smoke sub ohm, do you get use to the hotter vape?

I am loving the flavour and the clouds, but i find i cannot inhale as long as i could with the Nautilus mini. Obviously you run at a higher temp. Just want to know if this is something you get use.


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Some people enjoy the warmer vape and others do not.

I personally find it to be juice dependant. Refreshing menthol juices always work best on a cooler vape as it suits their flavour profile.

On the other hand, deserts and tobacco for me work best when the vapor is warmer. It enhances the experience for me.

My advice would be to whip out the rba base, grab some 28g wire and do 8/9 wraps on a 2.0mm screwdriver. Should bring you around 1.2 - 1.4 ohms if I'm not mistaken.

You'll be able to run this around 12 watts and be happy the vape itself should also be nice and cool :)
 
Some people enjoy the warmer vape and others do not.

I personally find it to be juice dependant. Refreshing menthol juices always work best on a cooler vape as it suits their flavour profile.

On the other hand, deserts and tobacco for me work best when the vapor is warmer. It enhances the experience for me.

My advice would be to whip out the rba base, grab some 28g wire and do 8/9 wraps on a 2.0mm screwdriver. Should bring you around 1.2 - 1.4 ohms if I'm not mistaken.

You'll be able to run this around 12 watts and be happy the vape itself should also be nice and cool :)
Got a 1.2 ohm coil, going to try that one tomorrow.


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I got the big subtank on Monday. Believe me, I was ready to throw it in the bin on numerous occasions this week. I also come from the Nautilus mini and love the cool vape. The subtank was just way too much for me. I can't use any of the OCC's I got in the box - just too friggin hot. It feels like it is going to burn the enamel off my teeth. I am using it with a Kbox and went through all the different Wattage settings, but just couldn't find any setting that suits me. Eventually I built a 1.2 Ohm coil for the RBA base and used Japanese cotton as wicking. I struggled like hell to stop the dry hits and yesterday realised it was the high VG juice stuffing me around. I went to 50/50 juice and for the first time I can actually say I am comfortable with the subtank. I am vaping at 20 Watt on the Kbox.
I am not one to fiddle with these tanks to get it to work properly - I just want it to work first time like the Protanks and Nautilus tanks, but I paid so much money for this subtank that I had to get it sorted. I was also getting frustrated with the cost of the Nautilus coils and they don't even last a week.

@Silver is absolutely correct. Just because other guys are freaking out about sub-ohm vaping, doesn't mean it is for me.
 
I got the big subtank on Monday. Believe me, I was ready to throw it in the bin on numerous occasions this week. I also come from the Nautilus mini and love the cool vape. The subtank was just way too much for me. I can't use any of the OCC's I got in the box - just too friggin hot. It feels like it is going to burn the enamel off my teeth. I am using it with a Kbox and went through all the different Wattage settings, but just couldn't find any setting that suits me. Eventually I built a 1.2 Ohm coil for the RBA base and used Japanese cotton as wicking. I struggled like hell to stop the dry hits and yesterday realised it was the high VG juice stuffing me around. I went to 50/50 juice and for the first time I can actually say I am comfortable with the subtank. I am vaping at 20 Watt on the Kbox.
I am not one to fiddle with these tanks to get it to work properly - I just want it to work first time like the Protanks and Nautilus tanks, but I paid so much money for this subtank that I had to get it sorted. I was also getting frustrated with the cost of the Nautilus coils and they don't even last a week.

@Silver is absolutely correct. Just because other guys are freaking out about sub-ohm vaping, doesn't mean it is for me.

I feel the exactly the same as you. Feels like my lips and teeth are burning.

I currently have rocket sheep in it which is 60/40. Going to try the other coil and a 50/50 mix today.

I am glad i bought it even though it was very expensive, but thats how you learn and i am not ready to give up on it yet. I am still a bit scared of the rba side of things but think i am going to give that a try over the weekend.

I just love the capacity of the subtank so i will make it work goddamnit.


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Hi @Barak

When you get a chance, please put in your location in your Personal Details
It will then appear under your avatar
It helps with a lot of things on the forum
Just click your name in the top right, then "Personal Details" and find the "Location" field
A city is fine.
 
Hi @Barak

When you get a chance, please put in your location in your Personal Details
It will then appear under your avatar
It helps with a lot of things on the forum
Just click your name in the top right, then "Personal Details" and find the "Location" field
A city is fine.
That should do it. Wanted to change it last night, but couldn't do it on tapatalk.
 
just put in the 1.2ohm and started at 12watts. That is a lot better. Will push it up a bit now to 15 where i had the 0.5ohm.
 
the sub tank mini is an awesome tank - but man oh man, does it irritate me when it starts to leak!
the juice seems to come out the AFC ring, which means it leaks through the coil. i cannot say that i'm surprised. every single Kangertech tank has done this, every one.
i also used the RTA deck, but it was also leaking, although i only rebuilt it once.

so last night i decided i will rebuild the commercial coil.
26g
2mm ID
6 wraps
wicked it with rayon, but did not cut it flush with the outside holes, i left little "tails" about 2-3mm on each side.

result, much better vape, even if the resistance is higher, its used on a regulated device so its of no matter.
i also changed all the seals just to be sure and so far no leaking, hopefully it will stay like that :)
 
So I pushed the 1.2ohm coil to 20 watts and it is a lot cooler and much better than the 0.5ohm. I think i will stay away from those ones. Wanna try and put together a 1.0ohm coil over the weekend. but i still need to do a lot of research before i am even going to attempt building my own coil.
 
just a note

i dont think there is a dif between the 1.2Ohm and 0.5Ohm coils if you are using them on a regulated device.
for eg.
your vape's main measure of power is power or wattage.
so if you vape on 20w
1.2ohm coil, means there is 1.2"units" of resistance, which means that your device needs to push 4.9 volts to achieve 20w
0.5ohm coil, means there is 0.5"units" of resistance, which means that your device needs to push 3.16 volts to achieve 20w

but, if you use it on a mech mod, which just gives raw power ranging from 4.2v to 3.6v depending on our battery and how much power it has left, its a different story.
lets work on 4.1v
1.2ohm coil. means there is 1.2"units" of resistance, at 4.1 volt will give you 14.01w
0.5ohm coil, means there is 0.5"units" of resistance, at 4.1 volt wil give you 33.62w

so honestly, there is no difference between the 1.2 and 0.5 coils if you are vaping on a regulated device, except that the 0.5 one will "cost" you less in terms of power consumption, as it needs less power to get to 20w or what ever wattage you decide. in short, your battery will last longer
 
just a note

i dont think there is a dif between the 1.2Ohm and 0.5Ohm coils if you are using them on a regulated device.
for eg.
your vape's main measure of power is power or wattage.
so if you vape on 20w
1.2ohm coil, means there is 1.2"units" of resistance, which means that your device needs to push 4.9 volts to achieve 20w
0.5ohm coil, means there is 0.5"units" of resistance, which means that your device needs to push 3.16 volts to achieve 20w

but, if you use it on a mech mod, which just gives raw power ranging from 4.2v to 3.6v depending on our battery and how much power it has left, its a different story.
lets work on 4.1v
1.2ohm coil. means there is 1.2"units" of resistance, at 4.1 volt will give you 14.01w
0.5ohm coil, means there is 0.5"units" of resistance, at 4.1 volt wil give you 33.62w

so honestly, there is no difference between the 1.2 and 0.5 coils if you are vaping on a regulated device, except that the 0.5 one will "cost" you less in terms of power consumption, as it needs less power to get to 20w or what ever wattage you decide. in short, your battery will last longer

At the moment for me it is just about the hot vape. With the 0.5 coil at 20w my lips burn at about 2 seconds where as with the 1.2ohm coil i can my reach my normal 5-8 seconds without that burn.


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so honestly, there is no difference between the 1.2 and 0.5 coils if you are vaping on a regulated device, except that the 0.5 one will "cost" you less in terms of power consumption, as it needs less power to get to 20w or what ever wattage you decide. in short, your battery will last longer

That's not actually accurate...

0.5 @ 20W will indeed only require 3.16V BUT it will draw 6.32A of power
1.2 @ 20W will require 4.9V but will ONLY draw 4.08A of power

So it basically works out to the same battery life (more or less) :D

Have a look here for easy calculation ;)
 
That's not actually accurate...

0.5 @ 20W will indeed only require 3.16V BUT it will draw 6.32A of power
1.2 @ 20W will require 4.9V but will ONLY draw 4.08A of power

So it basically works out to the same battery life (more or less) :D

Have a look here for easy calculation ;)
whoops - i totally forgot about the AMPS haha you are correct :)
 
..also has a similar experience as OP , the sub ohm coils vape was really too harsh for me so I set the Subtank Mini aside for a while

well built a 1.6 ohm micro coil 28g 6 wraps on a 3mm , pancake wick and well very very much nicer not such a harsh TH , running at 15W and it's bliss ....
 
@PeterHarris

So weird that you mention the leaking on the subtank.

I love more for the very fact that it NEVER leaks.

No matter how the tank is standing or lying down.

I have been using it non stop for the last month, with commercial coils and rba base. Has not leaked so much as a drop.
 
@PeterHarris

So weird that you mention the leaking on the subtank.

I love more for the very fact that it NEVER leaks.

No matter how the tank is standing or lying down.

I have been using it non stop for the last month, with commercial coils and rba base. Has not leaked so much as a drop.
then u are very lucky.....:)
 
+1 no leaks at all, unless I count the times I messed up rebuilding the stock coils. Love this tank to bits.

Sent while vaping on Okkum my Smok M80
 
Mine leaks too..but only when I stuff up the wicking on the OCC coils.
 
no F this tank - even after rebuilding the comercial coil, it still leaks. i dont have time for a tank that leaks... :(

going back to the big nautilus and some bvc coils.....
 
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