Should I consider Temperature Control?

[BansheeZA]

I have a invader mini tc and have 1 of the mutation X v2 I have set up for tc with ni200 and only use it with my gambit diy.
It works fine and the temp is set to 350 deg f. Nice clouds and good flavour but it is a pain to set up right because the nickel is so soft.
I have also done some nickel rebuild coils in the subtank but the invader is a tad bit finicky and it doesn't work all that well. It surprises me with a very hot burnt hit every now and again because the resistance goes all over the place as the invader does not have atty lock. I have kinda given up on tc for now. Luckily power mode on the invader works as it should

 

[Petrus]

I got 2 devices that can do TC. Have not tried a TC setup though. I got a little Titanium and Nickel wire....just in case.

My personal opinion....I am not interested in all this experimenting anymore. I just wanna vape without going into a mission, after I have found my perfect setup. Nowadays I coil my RDA's just every other week, whenever I feel that it really has to be done. I change cotton and dry burn at least every 2 days.

Most of my time is taken up by refilling juices

Happy with that!

@Tom. When you mean you dry burn the coil is it only to get all the build-up off, before you wick it again?

 

[Kuhlkatz]

@Tom. When you mean you dry burn the coil is it only to get all the build-up off, before you wick it again?

Yes @Petrus , most people that coil with Kanthal will only remove the wicking and then dry-burn the coil without wick to clean it. Give it a brush and a few rinses in between the dry-burns to get off all the gunk, and then just re-wick the same coil after possibly doing minor re-adjustment and aligning of the coil. The Kanthal coils can last quite a long time by doing this.

 

[kev mac]

Good Morning. I have followed this post, for one reason. Got hold of a decent tc mod, and a billow v2. Try to build a nickel coil, geeeeez what a battle, keep cutting the legs. Went back to kanthal, same mod and tank, love it for a second device. To get back to my point, if there is health risks regarding ni200, why do they sell pre-buid ni200 coils....ego, kangertech?

@Petrus I too am concerned w/ the speculations on nick. wire, this sucks cause I like using T.C. I'm starting to get into ti. but they'll probably say it causes anal warts.Hopefully some studies can bring conclusive evidence to light.Till then it's a dice roll.If you still choose to go w/ t. C. I suggest using the twisted method using equal gauged kanthal and nickel, this seems to strengthen the legs a bit as well as improving flavor imo, luck to ya'.

 

[Tom]

@Tom. When you mean you dry burn the coil is it only to get all the build-up off, before you wick it again?

yes, correct. As @Kuhlkatz described. I just dryburn and wick again. No adjustments necessary, I use 0.50mm Kanthal and therefore the coil is quite sturdy.

 

[Bartart]

Thanks for the information and opinions, helped me immensely as I've been thinking about the whole TC thing and wondering if I'm missing something. I've learned the technology has some way to go and for newbies like me with limited budget, I will opt to stay away for the time being.
@Tom thanks for the inadvertent advice on the changing of the wicks so often. I'm gonna give that a try

 

[Roy Pretorius]

I am now vaping in TC mode. I prefer 0.4 ohm coils. I use a Sigelei 150 watt temp control with a Kanger Sub Tank mini. I wind my coils with Titanium. It is awesome.

 

[dwayne19420]

As a newbie to vaping and TC I think Tc is a fiddly thing to get right in the beginning.
Once you do get it right its a nice option to have if you want very cool vapour production and consistency time and time again.
Also the coil and wick lasts a little longer than norm kathal is no nonsense and works every time.
NI you have to triple check your build or you will be frustrated with it not working.

 

[Darryn Du Plessis]

Temperature Control (TC) is all the rage now. Vendors proclaim it to be the future of vaping. Perfect for new vapers. Most mods coming out now are TC mods.

On the other hand I see daily reports on forums of vapers saying it is not for them. @Paulie posted this just the other day:

"I wont use TI and Ni200 anymore until i see detailed tests as there is now talk about Ni200 leaking into your juices cause the wire does not oxidise when it heats up! I wont use TI cause the is a massive risk attached to is that if it heats up to hot you get poisonous elements that can be inhaled associated with it! Alot of people will say yes but it will never get to that temp but i have seen plenty of mine and others using temp mode devices not working effectively and things can go very wrong quick!".

Where did this all start? There seems to be general consensus that the flawed formaldehyde paper triggered this trend.

What are the benefits of TC? No dry hits if you set it up right. The same consistent vape throughout. No juice cooking in your tank or dripper. From all accounts the vape is very similar to the vape on Kanthal. I have yet to come across anyone saying the vape is better, different yes, but not better.

And the cons? Coiling and wicking is certainly not easier than Kanthal. If you build your own coils, you will be building much more frequently than with Kanthal. Nickel (Ni) is soft and springy and cannot be torched or dry burned. From a technical point of view Ni is not a good wire for TC - the resistance is just too low. Many have reported an adverse reaction to NI. Titanium is better from a technical perspective, but can only be torched/dry burned under controlled conditions to prevent poisonous substances forming. In addition you have to go through extra steps to setup your TC atomizer on your TC mod. The experts agree that eventually, neither Ni nor Ti will be the preferred wire for TC. Maybe Stainless Steel or NiFe 48. Here is quite an informative thread on ECF in this regard.

Is it perfect for someone new to vaping. Certainly not if the intention is to use an RBA. And the dud ratio on commercial TC coils is extremely high at this stage. For my money TC vaping is just too complicated to recommend to new vapers at the moment.

Personally, I have tried Ni and Ti. Ni is really not a pleasure to work with. With Ti I am constantly worried that I will get some of the poisonous stuff. Yes, it works - no dry puffs, but then with Kanthal any vaper (if paying attention) can feel a dry puff a mile away. Imo the incidence of dry puffs is such that we should not be worried.

My advice: Stay with Kanthal for the time being. It is tried and tested and has been used since the beginning of vaping. At least we have a medium term reassurance that it has no detrimental effects if used correctly. TC vaping is in its infancy and in a development phase. The TC mod and TC wire you buy now, might not be the eventual standard.

YES YES YESY YES! hahah TC is too new to just jump in straight from VV/W - my current mod is providing vapours with a temperature that is always below the room temperature: as it sinks when exhaled -

How much processing does our pairs of lungs do to the vapour that enters our systems? to come out at a temperature that is lower than the air around us? because that has always been my testing point of how hot it is around me, and where the vapour travels - > if i blow it up and it still comes sinking down, then it's clearly not warmer than the air above it,, however, since the release of TC, Im wondering if 200w will even be needed if you're trying to keep it low anyway. The wattage differences are also very different between the mods, from 40-60 with kanger, to the 75w with EVIC and 80w+-160w with koopor -> Smok - point is there's just too many products to even try out - to source out what is best.. I think the one thing that wasn't covered was the stainless steel - which works for both TC and VW - so that's the most stable platform for solid builds that can be treated with some dry burning if you want to remove gunk Forget nickel, titanium - SS All the way -------------->

 

[blujeenz]

YES YES YESY YES! hahah TC is too new to just jump in straight from VV/W - my current mod is providing vapours with a temperature that is always below the room temperature: as it sinks when exhaled -

How much processing does our pairs of lungs do to the vapour that enters our systems? to come out at a temperature that is lower than the air around us? because that has always been my testing point of how hot it is around me, and where the vapour travels - > if i blow it up and it still comes sinking down, then it's clearly not warmer than the air above it,, however, since the release of TC, Im wondering if 200w will even be needed if you're trying to keep it low anyway. The wattage differences are also very different between the mods, from 40-60 with kanger, to the 75w with EVIC and 80w+-160w with koopor -> Smok - point is there's just too many products to even try out - to source out what is best.. I think the one thing that wasn't covered was the stainless steel - which works for both TC and VW - so that's the most stable platform for solid builds that can be treated with some dry burning if you want to remove gunk Forget nickel, titanium - SS All the way -------------->

You seem to have missed the obvious reason that vapour sinks and its not temp related.
The exhaled vape is denser than the surrounding atmosphere and will always sink whether you're in Dubai or Vostok, Antarctica.

 

[stevie g]

My vote is yes. Once you go TC (provided you can manage the learning curve) you don't go back.

Why would anyone want to struggle along with keeping a close eye on their tank always checking that it has juice in to avoid a dry hit.

Avoid all of that. TC is very simple, leave watts high and adjust temperature to achieve the heat output you want.

The ni200 is difficult to work with but no more of a learning curve that when you first learnt to coil with kanthal. Titanium is even easier and a plus with titanium is you can "dual use", most TC mods will run titanium in tc or power mode because titanium resistance is quite a bit more than ni200.

I cannot comment on SS tc as I have not tried it and my mod doesn't support it. If it has similar physical characteristics to kanthal then it sounds like a win win to me, plus I hear guys run it in either tc or power mode which is another plus.

Personally I enjoy ni200 but it uses more battery life than titanium and dry burning it might be bad or might not no one has a definitive answer yet.

The way I dry burn ni200 is leave it in tc mode. Get a cup full of water. Rinse it off, do a few burns. Then hold one coil in the water and the other one will glow red. Switch sides and repeat. Obviously this applies only to dual coils.

Good luck.

 

[Cespian]

My vote is yes. Once you go TC (provided you can manage the learning curve) you don't go back.

Why would anyone want to struggle along with keeping a close eye on their tank always checking that it has juice in to avoid a dry hit.

Avoid all of that. TC is very. simple leave watts high and adjust temperature to achieve the heat output you want.

The ni200 is difficult to work with but no more of a learning curve that when you first learnt to coil with kanthal. Titanium is even easy and a plus with titanium is you can "dual use", most TC mods will run titanium in tc or power mode because titanium resistance is quite a bit more than ni200.

I cannot comment on SS tc as I have not tried it and my mod doesn't support it. If it has physical characteristics to kanthal then it sounds like a win win to me, plus I hear guys run in in either tc or power mode which is another plus.

Personally I enjoy ni200 but it uses more battery life than titanium and dry burning it might be bad or might not no one has a definitive answer yet.

The way I dry burn ni200 is leave it in tc mode. Get a cup full of water. Rinse it off, do a few burns. Then hold one coil in the water and the other one will glow red. Switch sides and repeat. Obviously this applies only to dual coils.

Good luck.

Hi. This dry burning method of yours interests me. I am under the impression that water acts as a conductor for electricity. Would this not cause a short if the coil is submerged? Or am I understanding this incorrectly?

 

[blujeenz]

Hi. This dry burning method of yours interests me. I am under the impression that water acts as a conductor for electricity. Would this not cause a short if the coil is submerged? Or am I understanding this incorrectly?

Standard tap water doesnt have enough electrolytes to short out coils.
A strong saline solution would have more resistance than the coil current path, so no real shorting per se, rather a slightly higher current draw in all likelyhood

 

[Cespian]

Standard tap water doesnt have enough electrolytes to short out coils.
A strong saline solution would have more resistance than the coil current path, so no real shorting per se, rather a slightly higher current draw in all likelyhood

Thanks bud, will give it a go when I decide to build nickel again (it's a pain in the @ss though)

 

[shaunnadan]

Standard tap water doesnt have enough electrolytes to short out coils.
A strong saline solution would have more resistance than the coil current path, so no real shorting per se, rather a slightly higher current draw in all likelyhood

Do you see any bubbling or boiling, just curious

 

[blujeenz]

Do you see any bubbling or boiling, just curious

Nope, other than attributed to hot coils, but the water sinks the heat off the coil pretty quickly.

 

[shaunnadan]

Nope, other than attributed to hot coils, but the water sinks the heat off the coil pretty quickly.

I wonder what would happen with firing glowing red hot kanthal coils in a cup of water.... Off to the kitchen !

 

[blujeenz]

I wonder what would happen with firing glowing red hot kanthal coils in a cup of water.... Off to the kitchen !

pfffttt...steam cleaned

 

[stevie g]

Hi. This dry burning method of yours interests me. I am under the impression that water acts as a conductor for electricity. Would this not cause a short if the coil is submerged? Or am I understanding this incorrectly?

the water does not conduct as far as I can tell. This method is for dual coils one side in the other out. Word of caution, the side out will will hotspot the legs if running high watts so turn it down a bit before doing this. Lastly watch out for coil sag if you overheat it.

It is a great way to get more mileage out of ni200 I can usually clean it this way around 6 times before I decide it needs replacing.

 

[Stevape;)]

The thing I love about TC is how much longer a coil and wick stays clean. This coil is about a week old 24 gauge ss at 240C with some Vapour Mountain juice. Wicking was done crap but as a test to see how it holds up didn't bother fixing it. So far so good.

 

[Kuhlkatz]

I wonder what would happen with firing glowing red hot kanthal coils in a cup of water.... Off to the kitchen !

If you keep it in long enough, and refire repeatedly after the mod's 10/15 sec limit kicks in, you get a nice base for a coffee or tea

 

[Bartart]

I posted here about a month ago that I was going to wait, but I couldn't help my curiosity so I tried an experiment posted on the forum. It's a flawed experiment as experiments go, but I found that TC for me is a nicer vape than kanthal. Which is not to say kanthal is bad or anything like that I just prefer the flavour on Ti
I did find in my research an interesting article about how different mods handle TC http://vape-safe.blogspot.co.za/2015/05/the-whole-truth-about-temperature.html
This article isn't really the whole truth as the name suggests but does provide interesting insight into the mods. So some of the earlier posters are perhaps correct that TC is in its early days and needs some standardization and better research.
Luckily my Koopor mod appears to be a decent mod that controls the temp fairly well, not as good as some others but it's what I have so its what I will use.
I will say wrapping coils with Ti is just as easy as kanthal. And if it lasts as well as some say then for me it's an added plus. I'm three days on my first coils so maybe I'm talking out of my brown eye.

 

[Darryn Du Plessis]

You seem to have missed the obvious reason that vapour sinks and its not temp related.
The exhaled vape is denser than the surrounding atmosphere and will always sink whether you're in Dubai or Vostok, Antarctica.

Well it feels cooler than the air around it despite the density of a cloud. One day I'll strike lightning Inside my clouds. Density doesn't stop hot air from rising. If it can continue to rise it's showing to be warmer

 

[Andre]

Well it feels cooler than the air around it despite the density of a cloud. One day I'll strike lightning Inside my clouds. Density doesn't stop hot air from rising. If it can continue to rise it's showing to be warmer

Executive order: Your are being relocated to the moon. Vapour rises there.

 

[Cespian]

Well it feels cooler than the air around it despite the density of a cloud. One day I'll strike lightning Inside my clouds. Density doesn't stop hot air from rising. If it can continue to rise it's showing to be warmer