The Serpent Mini 22 and 25 Build Thread

I swear when these tanks leave the factory they glue these two parts together
On both tanks I got I battled my butt off to loosen them
 
When putting it back together use some finess and just finger tighten it. No need to torque it down.

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I swear when these tanks leave the factory they glue these two parts together
On both tanks I got I battled my butt off to loosen them
Funny enough my base comes off smoothly. Only problem I had was that the threading on the dual deck is shit and wouldn't screw in at all. But juicy Joes sorted me out with another dual deck that screws in now.

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Got it off combination of hot water and pliers but cracked the glass unfortunately esh bad luck for me thanks for the advice
But but but.... I said... . Unlucky though.

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Got it off combination of hot water and pliers but cracked the glass unfortunately esh bad luck for me thanks for the advice
You know what would have worked with the pliers, remove the top cap and put a long nose pliers into the juice holes while clamping the base and twist off. This should save the glass.

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So a new problem arised on my single deck the one post is totally loose picture to follow it doesn't have the same bottom as the dual post deck and can not figure out how to get the dual post deck on. What is the colour on your bottom 510 pin?
kind of wondering now if I might have bought a clone.
 
That center post in the base needs to come out, take the tool that came with the atty and stick it in the airflow hole, through the airflow holes on the center post and crack it loose. I was wondering why the multi tool was so long then figured it's to help get the single deck loose. The same happened to me when I tried unscrewing the single deck. The positive post came off because the center shaft stayed in, which is your 510 positive pin that protrudes on the bottom

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You can be assured you have an authentic atty

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You can be assured you have an authentic atty

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ooh ok thank you will give it a go so it is normal for the positive post to come loose? I wanted to use the single deck more than the dual for my daily vaping needs but don't think i can use it as it is now?
 
Just screw it back on, the deck isn't broken.

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I have broken both glasses on both my SM25's minis' in the same fashion as described above. Plus, while the atty is on a mod, the airflow ring is always too tight to close. I always have to remove the atty from the mod to open the ring. Did someone say "Deal-breaker?"


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Haha,Yes the airflow is tight, iv never had a need to adjust it though, always wide open, havent broken any glass either so still a deal in my book
 
My 3 Stainless steel SM25's airflow are not tight and have no issue with them... the Black SM25 is a little tight... but I have not broken a glass tank yet and still have 4 perfect SM25's and 4 spare tanks still in the boxes.

The next tank up for testing is the Limitless RDTA! :p
 
My 3 Stainless steel SM25's airflow are not tight and have no issue with them... the Black SM25 is a little tight... but I have not broken a glass tank yet and still have 4 perfect SM25's and 4 spare tanks still in the boxes.

The next tank up for testing is the Limitless RDTA! :p
I have used one (the RDTA plus) I found the flavor extremely muted, slightly better with hot/fancy builds but the delrin top cap expands with heat(high wattage chain vape), to the extent that the threads didn't catch and would fall right off!!, shrinks once it has cooled again, not a fan,

interested in your comments but i predict an epic fail, great for clouds though
 
I'm getting variable readings on my coil. When I do a dry burn it's at 0.57ohms, once wicked and inserted it jumps to 0.66ohms and then when I vape it bounces around all over the place from 0.0 to 0.77ohms. No clue what's wrong, I put in a new coil n same thing happens, was worried it was the mod but reads others fine.

Edit** I'm using the prebuilt coils that came with the tank.
 
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I'm getting variable readings on my coil. When I do a dry burn it's at 0.57ohms, once wicked and inserted it jumps to 0.66ohms and then when I vape it bounces around all over the place from 0.0 to 0.77ohms. No clue what's wrong, I put in a new coil n same thing happens, was worried it was the mod but reads others fine.

Edit** I'm using the prebuilt coils that came with the tank.
Make sure the positive post is screwed down properly and make sure the grub screws are tightened properly. Or you could have tighten the leads to much and cut into the coil wire. These symptoms is indicative of poor connectivity.

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I'm getting variable readings on my coil. When I do a dry burn it's at 0.57ohms, once wicked and inserted it jumps to 0.66ohms and then when I vape it bounces around all over the place from 0.0 to 0.77ohms. No clue what's wrong, I put in a new coil n same thing happens, was worried it was the mod but reads others fine.

Edit** I'm using the prebuilt coils that came with the tank.
Also had same issue check the deck is properly seated also the grip screws like mentioned. I do find the single deck comes loose after a while (maybe why everything was so tight from the beginning) tolerances on this is very very tight. Waiting on my OBS Engine to arrive to compare. If flavor is the same or better the SM is going up for sale probably just too finicky a tank for me sadly.
 
I have used one (the RDTA plus) I found the flavor extremely muted, slightly better with hot/fancy builds but the delrin top cap expands with heat(high wattage chain vape), to the extent that the threads didn't catch and would fall right off!!, shrinks once it has cooled again, not a fan,

interested in your comments but i predict an epic fail, great for clouds though

Just opened the package now and yes I think EPIC fail is on the cards...
 
@Rob Fisher
If I may ask in all your testing on this RTA what VG/PG ratio have u been using. Things were going well on 60/40
Using 70/30 and getting leaks like hell when filing. This thicker juice seems to push the wicks out when screwing down the top cap.
 
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