To Kick Or Not To Kick

The Golf

Experienced Vaper
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So im about to purchase my first mech mod, questiin it do I purchase a kick with it, beside the obvious power delivery are there any pros or cons to take into account. Would it work at sub ohm levels. Do I want it to work at sub ohm levels

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If you can afford 1, do it... You can always just not use it if you don't want to (or resell), than rather wanting 1 when you could have had it. I would try to get 1 of the Evolv kicks. Not sure how to source it though..
 
but that defeats the purpose then...me thinks. if you want the mech to become a VW device yes, if you want to go lower ohms it is because you want more then the 15W that a VW or a kick delivers.
 
full battery = 4.2V
resistance = 1 ohm
is already 17.6W
 
but that defeats the purpose then...me thinks. if you want the mech to become a VW device yes, if you want to go lower ohms it is because you want more then the 15W that a VW or a kick delivers.

True that, but if you only have a Mod, it would be cool because you could choose. Maybe 1 day when you feel like having a calm everyday vape, use the kick and enjoy the constant vape throughout the batteries life. Or if you feel like having a monster in your hand, do it kickless. Its nice having a choice. I hardly use my regular VV/VW devices, but would use 1 if it was in the Mod. All about choices.
 
that's true, did not see that angle.
 
that's true, did not see that angle.

Also, you only need to carry your "kick" along with you, instead of having your extra VV/VW device. Maybe even also carrying your protank, evod or iclear along with your RBA/RDA of course. 1 tube, with all possibilities :)
 
I ordered a kick from fasttech so I that I have the option when I buy my first mech mod. I think an added benefit is that you can have a VW device but in the size of a mech.
 
This may be slightly off topic, but it's all related I guess.

@Matthee, when you said in another thread that you found your battery in your REO lasted for about 3ml of juice - how do you know when to change it? Is it that the voltage drops and you can feel the power dropping quite a lot? Or is it just a little?

I guess what I'm asking here since I've never used a mech mod, is how much worse is the vape when the battery is say half full? If the battery went down from 4.2V to say 3.7V, at 1 ohm, that would imply the power declines from 17.6 Watts to 13.6W. How much worse is 13.6W than 17.6W? Is it much worse or only a little bit worse?

Sorry if this is a noob question but if the vape gets considerably worse, then I could understand (at least at these sort of levels) why an electronic mod at a constant say 14W is not a bad thing.
 
I can answer this one :)
You do notice a drop in vapour production when the battery starts to go flat - but in the beginning it is not so easy to notice (while you are still getting used to the reo)

I would suggest that you test the voltage at the end of the day and at around 3 Volt, pop it in the charger - eventually, you do notice the drop quite easily - took me a week or so.

But so far it is only noticeable when the battery is in need of a re-charge - halfway through it still does fine
 
This may be slightly off topic, but it's all related I guess.

@Matthee, when you said in another thread that you found your battery in your REO lasted for about 3ml of juice - how do you know when to change it? Is it that the voltage drops and you can feel the power dropping quite a lot? Or is it just a little?

I guess what I'm asking here since I've never used a mech mod, is how much worse is the vape when the battery is say half full? If the battery went down from 4.2V to say 3.7V, at 1 ohm, that would imply the power declines from 17.6 Watts to 13.6W. How much worse is 13.6W than 17.6W? Is it much worse or only a little bit worse?

Sorry if this is a noob question but if the vape gets considerably worse, then I could understand (at least at these sort of levels) why an electronic mod at a constant say 14W is not a bad thing.
That's easy - change my battery as soon as the bottle is halfway:). Said jokingly, but that is more or less the case in practice. In the beginning I used to check the battery constantly, found that at 3.7 V I want a new battery. At this point I can feel the vape is not to my liking. Just this morning felt, no, something is wrong - checked the battery - 3.7 V. So, in practice I change the battery after about half a bottle, just before the vape deteriorates - when I do check the battery then it is usually 3.8 V. Obviously the point of no return might be different for another vaper, but this is more or less the benchmark for Reonauts. It is recommended not to go below 3.2 V on an IMR battery - to ensure maximum battery life.
 
That's easy - change my battery as soon as the bottle is halfway:). Said jokingly, but that is more or less the case in practice. In the beginning I used to check the battery constantly, found that at 3.7 V I want a new battery. At this point I can feel the vape is not to my liking. Just this morning felt, no, something is wrong - checked the battery - 3.7 V. So, in practice I change the battery after about half a bottle, just before the vape deteriorates - when I do check the battery then it is usually 3.8 V. Obviously the point of no return might be different for another vaper, but this is more or less the benchmark for Reonauts. It is recommended not to go below 3.2 V on an IMR battery - to ensure maximum battery life.
I must say, that at 3.7/8 I can also feel I need a new battery. On my Reo I also change when bottle is half.
 
True that, but if you only have a Mod, it would be cool because you could choose. Maybe 1 day when you feel like having a calm everyday vape, use the kick and enjoy the constant vape throughout the batteries life. Or if you feel like having a monster in your hand, do it kickless. Its nice having a choice. I hardly use my regular VV/VW devices, but would use 1 if it was in the Mod. All about choices.
For me the crux of the matter lies in the bolded part above. Once you get used to a mech mod and like it, there is no going back to a regulated device. But, many, many vapers prefer an electronic (regulated) mod for ease of use, constant battery power, built in safety, a vape to their satisfaction, etcetera. So, if a mech mod regulated with a Kick is a cheaper option, go for it - but because you prefer a regulated mod, not because you like a mech mod, but will quite frequently also use it in regulated mode - that is not going to happen. One big advantage if going this route is that should your Kick kick the bucket you can still vape. With an all-in-one VV/VW device, like the SVD, if the device breaks, you are buggered.
 
I must say, that at 3.7/8 I can also feel I need a new battery. On my Reo I also change when bottle is half.
WHAT! Have I missed this. You got a Reo? Or did you forget to add the joke face?
 
Sorry @Matthee, I just had to. Hehehe. I guess I'm just jealous.:)
But back to the SVD thing. I have one at home that was used for a good week or two and now it is just standing there with a protank on for in case of a serious emergency.
 
Sorry @Matthee, I just had to. Hehehe. I guess I'm just jealous.:)
But back to the SVD thing. I have one at home that was used for a good week or two and now it is just standing there with a protank on for in case of a serious emergency.
No probs, @TylerD. Jesting on a forum makes it come alive. And I must say our little forum is so alive it feels like we must have about 10 times the number of members that we actually have.
 
That's easy - change my battery as soon as the bottle is halfway:). Said jokingly, but that is more or less the case in practice. In the beginning I used to check the battery constantly, found that at 3.7 V I want a new battery. At this point I can feel the vape is not to my liking. Just this morning felt, no, something is wrong - checked the battery - 3.7 V. So, in practice I change the battery after about half a bottle, just before the vape deteriorates - when I do check the battery then it is usually 3.8 V. Obviously the point of no return might be different for another vaper, but this is more or less the benchmark for Reonauts. It is recommended not to go below 3.2 V on an IMR battery - to ensure maximum battery life.

Thanks for the reply @Matthee. Now I see! Makes perfect sense. Thanks.

And i suppose thats why it makes sense to have the larger capacity 18650 batt especially if youre only using about half its capacity at a time. Also from my visits to the Battery University site it will prolong the life of your battery not to drain it too low.
 
Sorry @Matthee, I just had to. Hehehe. I guess I'm just jealous.:)
But back to the SVD thing. I have one at home that was used for a good week or two and now it is just standing there with a protank on for in case of a serious emergency.

@TylerD, you had me going there about your REO. I thought for a minute you may have bought it from @Gizmo.

Love your emergency backup SVD plus Protank. That would be considered by many (including me at this stage) to be quite high end stuff ;-)
 
No kick for me. Decided im comfortable enough using my mods as is. Seems the dying battery at the end of the day and strong battery in the beginning works well for me. I am just carefull when building coils that they are excatly what I am aiming for and vape the way want them to. There are def advantages of using a kick but then rather buy a electronic mod.

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No kick for me. Decided im comfortable enough using my mods as is. Seems the dying battery at the end of the day and strong battery in the beginning works well for me. I am just carefull when building coils that they are excatly what I am aiming for and vape the way want them to. There are def advantages of using a kick but then rather buy a electronic mod.

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Good indication that the coil is more than your battery can handle, is that the battery will get warm - and consequently the mech mod will get warm - so if you feel anything other than a luke warm from your battery, you are probably over taxing it and should go for higher ohms
 
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