Weekend Projects
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Yip checked out that one too, full length version with 4 bottles of RIT in the background.
Agree, or as cheap as possible.Not a damn.
Free is problem free
Considering Kevin at Dala gave me a good discount, R14 for 250ml Teddy Purple liquid dye, Im not too butt hurt that it didnt work.
Just struggling to find the right stuff here SA.
for my build I am toying wiht the idea of just going titanium and anodizing that.
or getting Demascus for it.
I know the prototype I am making on sunday the plan is to use alluminium but I was aiming to keep that normal silver colour bcause its more to get dimentions worked out.
the plan for my face plate is to make it longer than needed, then put the 510 hole into that, and give it a nice bend so the face plate goes over the top curve of the mod as one solid piece.
this weekend is more about order of opperations on a cheap block of wood, so when my stabalized blocks are ready end of March I know my planned steps will work correctly.
will be a DNA250C duel 18650, magnetic battery door, with the Face plate making sort of an L bracket shape to hold the board and the 510, heirloom fit into the wood.
or getting Demascus for it.
I know the prototype I am making on sunday the plan is to use alluminium but I was aiming to keep that normal silver colour bcause its more to get dimentions worked out.
the plan for my face plate is to make it longer than needed, then put the 510 hole into that, and give it a nice bend so the face plate goes over the top curve of the mod as one solid piece.
this weekend is more about order of opperations on a cheap block of wood, so when my stabalized blocks are ready end of March I know my planned steps will work correctly.
will be a DNA250C duel 18650, magnetic battery door, with the Face plate making sort of an L bracket shape to hold the board and the 510, heirloom fit into the wood.
Dual 18650 DNA250C on my side as well.
I'll be using denim micarta top and bottom so I dont have to do fancy insulating for the batt contacts top and bottom, plus easy to mill a hole for the 510.
I used al for the faceplate as its easier to machine and I have plenty of 3mm extruded lying around.
I scribe layout lines on the reverse, but I seem to have a wurm in die kop that likes going over lines.
slightly jelous of the machine side. mine is all going to be manual for now.
maybe on V2 wiht the stab wood I will call in the CNC for the faceplate on the Titanium or Damascus.
I have 3d Printed parts and wood to isolate the batteries.
but who knows I might be completely wrong and I might need to rethink that later if my plans fail
maybe on V2 wiht the stab wood I will call in the CNC for the faceplate on the Titanium or Damascus.
I have 3d Printed parts and wood to isolate the batteries.
but who knows I might be completely wrong and I might need to rethink that later if my plans fail
Tried it as a last ditch, but wasnt the look I was going for, more of a dirty plum than purple.
Trouble is the viscosity of epoxy creates a beading around the edges with a meniscus effect and while its fine for a name plate, it looks bad with a face plate with many cutouts.
In the end I decided to go with plain as the purple anodizing might look a bit garish/gaudy.
This is the result on a test panel even after pushing the epoxy around with a toothpick.
I figured the raised epoxy would probably also be more prone to wear, scratches or chipping.
why not just cast solid epoxy exactly the way you want it and machine it into a face plate?
I saw on the finished product in the other thread so I understand what you did with the screen portion is just cast, question is why not just cast the face plate, machine it, then cast the "screen" back in?
I saw on the finished product in the other thread so I understand what you did with the screen portion is just cast, question is why not just cast the face plate, machine it, then cast the "screen" back in?
Big risk of chipping, wont be able to erase the machining marks inside all the holes and a 3mm thick plate would be quite fragile.
valid point.
my weekend project hit an ugly snag this weekend.
a small slip while cleaning up an edge lead to quite a bad break on my wood mod.
this has lead to a small redesign.
but honestly I think the current piece of wood needs to be scrapped. and I need to start over.
I am struggling to find the kind of wood I am looking for for this project. I keep going for pieces that are close to final dimension and that leads to problems.
a small slip while cleaning up an edge lead to quite a bad break on my wood mod.
this has lead to a small redesign.
but honestly I think the current piece of wood needs to be scrapped. and I need to start over.
I am struggling to find the kind of wood I am looking for for this project. I keep going for pieces that are close to final dimension and that leads to problems.
I've always loved wooden mods. Specially DIY ones. Got pics?
unfortunately wiht the break there is no point in taking pics. it went from an amazing looking but not yet finished mod to a couple of pieces of scrapwood. and it was a stabalised redbush block I used.
Turned the parts from a 2005 HP PSC1315 inkjet into a mag stirrer.
Used just the 16V leg of the power brick feeding a pwm kit from Yebo.
The 4 magnets came from the Pulse V1 BF mod.
Desoldered the power jack off the main pcb and glued it into the side for the power brick to plug into.
Used just the 16V leg of the power brick feeding a pwm kit from Yebo.
PWM DC Motor Controller (KIT53S) [KIT53S] - R218.65 : Yebo Electronics
Yebo Electronics PWM DC Motor Controller (KIT53S) [KIT53S] - This circuit is principally aimed at those wanting to control the speed on a mini drill, as often used for making PCBs however, the circuit could be used in numerous other applications where speed control is required in dc motors, or...
www.fort777.co.za
Desoldered the power jack off the main pcb and glued it into the side for the power brick to plug into.
that looks freaking awesome.
having just gotten my a mag stirrer myself its a complete game changer. but my big thing is the heating controll. being able to stir juice at a nice 65 degrees for 4 or so hours does about the same as the first 2 days of steeping on fruity jucies. you still want to steep but the steep time is a lot less
having just gotten my a mag stirrer myself its a complete game changer. but my big thing is the heating controll. being able to stir juice at a nice 65 degrees for 4 or so hours does about the same as the first 2 days of steeping on fruity jucies. you still want to steep but the steep time is a lot less
Yeah, would have liked a heat pad but with separation between the stir bar and rotor, the attractive force stopping the bar from crashing out is greatly reduced.
retile heating pad from takealot.
you can get a 10cm by 10cm one. dont have as good temp controll but because its pastic it wont mess with the magnet as much
How about heated air?
I got an idea and not to sure if itll work.
Smalll 240V hairdryer. Not very fast and not much heat
Ive been bald for 30yrs so no hairdryer.
Like baxsteen said, those small graphite snake/lizard heat pads work okay, just slow at 7w.
But theres no localised heat area on the glass which might cause an issue with a glass beaker.
the reptile heating pad would work brilliantly.Ive been bald for 30yrs so no hairdryer.
Like baxsteen said, those small graphite snake/lizard heat pads work okay, just slow at 7w.
But theres no localised heat area on the glass which might cause an issue with a glass beaker.
I know from experience with them that you can leave normal non heat treated glass on the heating pad for an entire weekend while the pad is on max heat and the glass will not break. and your glass beaker is tempered so it has better heat resistance than normal glass.
for those wondering, I had a piece of glass on the heating pad to dehidrate some things, and left the set up like that from the Friday around 5pm until the sunday around 3pm when I got home and noticed I left it on full blast....
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