What makes High-End... High-End? Part 2

Takie

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There has been a lot of talk around justification of High-End (HE) atomizers. While the comments and feedback that I have seen have been constructive a lot of them are inaccurate and based on a lot of speculation. While I do believe that so long as the atomizer satisfies a Vapers needs, surely the question that needs to be asked is "Can it get any better?"

The answer is YES!

While I do agree with most that some of the prices are rather high and a lot of money to dish out for some stainless steel, insulation and what not, one needs to look at the whole concept a bit closer. In this part of my deep dive into HE I am going to be looking at RDAs first as this is probably the most basic concept and easiest to understand.

So with any dripper I would expect the following:
  • A typical RDA
    • The Deck
      • A positive and negative post - Sometimes a 2 post, 3 post or 4 post.
      • Some form of being able to hold my coil down i.e. grubs or clamps
      • Insulation material to separate the conductivity between my positive and negative posts.
      • Airflow to channel my air to my coils on some decks, some do not have this as they rely on the cap to do this for us.
    • The Cap
    • The Drip Tip or Chuff - sometimes the Cap and DripTip are integrated into one.
    • 510 pin
For the purpose of my explanation I will use the Psyclone Hadaly as the case study.

hadaly_5_z.jpg

So the basic principle is that I will insert my coil between the two posts and from there by passing current through the atomizer I have a resistance in the coil that energy builds up and by physics (Newtons Laws) I have a release of energy. Simple enough!

So now if I take a step back, surely an RDA that costs R500 compared to R1500 should not be that much different other than the "style" of vaping I have? This can also be said that surely a clone is just as good as an authentic RDA right? This in fact is completely wrong.

Firstly lets put to bed the whole clone story. A clone yes can be a replica in look of an RDA however one needs to consider the following facts. The chances of the clone being of the same metallurgical composition and properties is out the window. This means that the design of the RDA that factors things like HEAT TRANSFER are completely set out of balance. Why this is important you ask? Well it is very simple. Although the irony is that we heat a coil to produce vaper, the actual cap and deck heating to a high temperature has an impact on the vaper production, quality of flavor and efficiency and demand I have on my mod - SO heat on my DECK is a NO,NO. The materials used in HE RDAs are used to keep the unit as cool as possible and to also dissipate heat as quickly as possible. This is the first thing that is factored when an RDA is made. You would be shocked how many HE modders claim a "majority" stainless steel 316L base but in fact have added "unnamed" additional materials into the composition to enhance heat transfer physics. I bet that has got your mind thinking already?
That is one of the many reasons clones are plain and simply crap! Should there be a need for me to go into more detail about this - I will do so if asked.

Right!

Let us now look at a normal commercial RDA vs that of a HE RDA.

The first thing I need to tell you is that the price does not always determine if an atomizer is HE or not. Let us look at the DotMod Petri v1.2 that costs R1500 vs the Psyclone Hadaly RDA that costs R1100. The Petri is not considered HE while the Hadaly is. Why is this you may ask? Let us jump into it.

Airflow, Airflow, Airflow!

So one of the things that is found in HE RDAs is airflow, airflow, airflow. Why is this important? Well the most basic way to explain it is as follows, the more air to vaper production I have the more cloud I produce at the compromise of flavor. The more vaper to air production I have the less cloud I have but the more flavor I produce. If you can understand this simple ideology you will then understand why flavor RDAs are 22mm in size and cloud RDAs are 24mm+.

The next thing I need to consider is that the cooler I can keep my coils the more flavor I can produce. Why is this? Well it is because when my coil overheats the juices molecular structure begins to breakdown at a rate that a) the concentrates within the juice breakdown and vaporize incorrectly b) VG beings to separate from PG causing inconsistent vaper production. Need proof? Get yourself a chocolate flavored juice - Mr Hardwicks Chocolate whip (fantastic juice BTW). Vape it at a low wattage vs a high wattage. You will notice that at a high wattage the chocolate flavor is not as great as at a low wattage. This is not because the juice has an issue what so ever. It is because the chocolate concentrate is very sensitive to heat! I am sure a lot of juice makers will even tell you that when mixing their juice at a temperature that certain concentrates cannot be added until the juice is cooler. The same principle applies when vaporizing your juice within your RDA.

How I direct the airflow onto my coils is also important, this is where HE shines. Most of the modders that design and engineer their RDAs spend MONTHS testing their designs and making sure that the airflow is hitting the coil correctly. Lets look at the Hadaly for example:

airflow.jpg

Mac is a very good friend and actually took his RDA to a fluid dynamics engineer to get the physics of how the airflow would hit his coil. The flow above shows exactly what makes this RDA HE. The other thing you will notice is the laminar flow of the air (this is basically how much turbulence or lack there of I have with the airflow transferring onto the coil and out through the mouthpiece.

You will probably not be surprised then to know that most commercial RDAs take their designs from the HE designs and try to achieve the same result (even though not possible) as the HE RDAs. The question you then ask is why are they not similar? Well this comes down to the fact that these RDAs require very special CNC machines to get the correct angles and dimensions where commercial RDAs are mass produced and cannot have a single piece sitting on a CNC for 30min. HE is all about perfection and getting the most out of a coil.

The next thing we need to look at is the conductivity of electrical current from our mod into the RDA from the flow of electrical direction being positive to negative. The metallurgical properties of how the conductivity impacts the voltage drop the RDA itself has on the overall circuit. The less drop I have the more responsive my RDA will be. It is not just about what type of coil you build and material you have (even though yes it does play a part in the bigger picture).

We also need to look at how I hold our coils in place, that design is always unique within the HE space, why you may ask? Well where vaping has evolved to, modders need to take into consideration all types of coils but also at the same same minimize resistance fluctuations. Remember where I spoke about heat transfer, well lets look at that a bit further, remember we have said that heat is BAD! Well if you look at physics 101, the hotter something gets the more my base resistance will increase.

The cap of your RDA when it comes to HE. You might see that some RDAs have fins on them, I promise you this is not only to make the cap look cool but to help the heat dissipation factors. Further to that the design of a cap is there to make the airflow as laminar as possible so that when I inhale vapor I am getting as much vapor off the coils as possible. In addition to this most flavor designs are there to get our mouths as close as possible to the coil so that we can extract as much flavor as possible.

There is a lot more I could go into but I think that is enough food for though for now... I hope it helps show how much goes into an HE RDA and how commercial RDAs are influenced.

End of Part 2...
 
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And how much do you love your Hadaly? Are you running it as a dripper or BF?
Bf on my reo. At 0.6ohm the vape is a bit hot and the bugger whistles but the flavor is great
 
Thanks @Takie for the write up
Always interesting to read and you have certainly given me lots of food for thought

I dont have any really high end gear but i have noticed that on some commercial devices, it just seems everything is right - the air mix with the flavour concentration - and it all feels great. While with other devices it just feels off. I get the feeling that on some commercial devices the manufacturers may have got it right by chance - and future versions are not quite the same.

Looking forward to hearing more!
 
Thanks @Takie for the write up
Always interesting to read and you have certainly given me lots of food for thought

I dont have any really high end gear but i have noticed that on some commercial devices, it just seems everything is right - the air mix with the flavour concentration - and it all feels great. While with other devices it just feels off. I get the feeling that on some commercial devices the manufacturers may have got it right by chance - and future versions are not quite the same.

Looking forward to hearing more!

Thank you for allowing me to post on your forums @Silver.

Can I be very honest with you. I know you are a bit skeptical about HE and how it works. Why not do what Uncle @Rob Fisher did and bite the bullet and buy one. Yes I know it might be 3x the price of a normal atty but I promise you, you won't regret it. I even think Uncle @Rob Fisher has 20,000 Hussars coming in. LOL!
 
Thanks @Takie

I am not skeptical and would love to try something out.

Will do - am just going to try figure out what to try first ;-)
 
Bf on my reo. At 0.6ohm the vape is a bit hot and the bugger whistles but the flavor is great
Strange, one of mine is also BF on a Reo without any whistling. And at 0.5 ohm it is not hot at all.
 
Strange, one of mine is also BF on a Reo without any whistling. And at 0.5 ohm it is not hot at all.
I presume there is something wrong with my build. Or as @Takie suggested maybe is did something wrong when i put in the bf pin. The whistling i have no clue what the issue is but the flavour is great so at this stage its a trade off
 
I find that if my draw is too strong I can get a whistle. A longer, gradual draw produces a lovely swooshing full of flavour :smiley:

I haven't had any heat issues, but I seldom run above 35 watts.
 
There should be no whistle from the Hadaly.

Uh, maybe it's just me.

But I'm curious as to how the Hadaly qualifies as high end. Sure it's well designed and produces excellent flavour, but if that's all that's required to be high end then there's a lot more high end gear out there.

It's mass produced in China, easily available from mainstream retailers (even a couple here in SA) and is well priced for the quality it provides. It also comes with it's own problems - like the cap is seriously stiff to take off and put on and many have removed an O-ring to make this easier.

As much as I love my Hadaly, I don't consider it high end. High quality yes, but not high end.
 
Is there a TLDR on this?

All I can say is price, quality and perception are all different things. As much as we'd like to think they are linked and they would be in a perfect world, experience has proven time and time again that they are not.

I mean there's a loooong write up this things that's high-end and then a few actual owners that get's a whistling sound from it and another that is getting too hot at 0.6ohms???? I'm sure I saw something about special materials that aid heat dissipation in that article but I'm a lot more sure that many more any-end and the middle atties don't whistle annoyingly or get to hot at a measly 0.6ohms.

Not fighting with the OP here, especially since I can't manage to read the whole article but I want to point out that it is one view really and this is another.
 
But I'm curious as to how the Hadaly qualifies as high end. Sure it's well designed and produces excellent flavour, but if that's all that's required to be high end then there's a lot more high end gear out there.

It's mass produced in China, easily available from mainstream retailers (even a couple here in SA) and is well priced for the quality it provides. It also comes with it's own problems - like the cap is seriously stiff to take off and put on and many have removed an O-ring to make this easier.

As much as I love my Hadaly, I don't consider it high end. High quality yes, but not high end.

That is my question as well, how would one know a HE from an "overpriced"/over-hyped atomizer then?
 
That is my question as well, how would one know a HE from an "overpriced"/over-hyped atomizer then?
I think time reveals a high-end product. Take the Nuppin for example. That is what I call HE. You don't see many of them for sale yet there were many sent here.

It's old now but I still have 2 in rotation. I have had any tried many newer HE atties since and they don't compare to the quality of the vape. I actually traded 3 other HE atties for the second after getting the first, each that had a cost price similar to the Nuppin, so technically I paid 3 times what it cost.

It also had it's finicky problem, specifically the post screws that stripped easily so I did a bulk order on those but then I only recoil them once or twice annually. Some have complained about the difficulty building with a postless design yet it's simpler than most once you get the hang of it. By contrast though, I have dropped these hard with my Reo's numerous times and I could simply put the pieces together and keep on vaping so while it's expensive, it certainly is HE to me.

Another atty I think is HE is actually cheap is the Bellus. Didn't just make another easy to build velocity style atty that gives the same old crappy vape but instead it focussed on awesome flavour, good vapour, and that awesome design pretty much meant you never had dry hits. Plain old atty without any fancy materials or colours etc but a well designed atty that provided and good vape.
 
Just wanted to say a big thanks for writing up 2 excellent articles. Will there be a part 3? How far can we dive into this? I want to know MORE!
 
Just wanted to say a big thanks for writing up 2 excellent articles. Will there be a part 3? How far can we dive into this? I want to know MORE!

Yes there will be many more of these posts from @Takie! He is really busy with his job and with all the HE Vape Groups that he is very active in... but he has promised to write an HE article whenever he gets a break and has a little time.
 
Uh, maybe it's just me.

But I'm curious as to how the Hadaly qualifies as high end. Sure it's well designed and produces excellent flavour, but if that's all that's required to be high end then there's a lot more high end gear out there.

It's mass produced in China, easily available from mainstream retailers (even a couple here in SA) and is well priced for the quality it provides. It also comes with it's own problems - like the cap is seriously stiff to take off and put on and many have removed an O-ring to make this easier.

As much as I love my Hadaly, I don't consider it high end. High quality yes, but not high end.

My guess is that it's considered HE because it's designed and controlled by an HE American Company... also the owner Mac travelled to China to check the plant that is very high tech and is one of the only plants capable of the quality and quantity that he needed.

My whole take on HE is how the high end vapers around the planet react to products... if the product is really high quality and the people take to it then it's considered High End. But for me I don't really care if something is labelled as HE... I'm much more interested in the quality of the product and the quality of the vape. For example the long awaited and highly hyped Hurricane V2 (HE) that costs $200 is a really kak tank and a Wotofo Alto is a better device. The Hurricane V2 had so much potential but I think the engineering and build let them down...

Now if we are talking about the Hussar and the ESG Skyline you only have to vape on one and play with it to know that they are both streets ahead of anything else.
HussarSteamTuners1.jpg HussarUltem2.jpg PhotoShoot10.jpg PicoBuild.JPG
 
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