@Shatter I don't necessarily have to up my watts; I'm just puzzled why a device CAN go up to 40W, but burns my throat if I go higher than 20W. Curious ... puzzled ... seems like such a waste.
@Shatter I don't necessarily have to up my watts; I'm just puzzled why a device CAN go up to 40W, but burns my throat if I go higher than 20W. Curious ... puzzled ... seems like such a waste.
If I am not mistaken the mods atty is removable ?? If that’s the case perhaps the 40w range is to accommodate this
Are you using the twisp juice? I see you’re using a Vega but I don’t know if you said what ejuice you’re vaping.
Knowing Mr Fisher it will more than likely be XXX but I could be wrong
I’m guessing you’re correct @Smoke_A_Llama but I was trying to ask what juice @Hooked is using in the Vega. If it’s still the 18mg twisp ejuice that might be why it burns over 20w. Just a thought.
Wow it’s too early for me, saw the tag and I think my brain short circuited ... my apologies
The confusion is based on the use of the words "starter kit". Strangely it doesn't mean a kit to start vaping. It means a "complete" kit. A starter kit may, in fact, be a very high wattage device. For example, the Vaporesso Revenger X 220W TC is sold as a Starter Kit. There are several high wattage "starter kits" (Smok Alien 220w, G priv 220x, Wismec Predator 228w, Reuleaux Rx Gen3 300w etc). What the manufacturers are saying is that the kit contains everything you need to vape in one kit (apart from battery, cotton and juice).
It is a very confusing way of marketing a product. In the past, some mech mods were even sold as starter kits (not a good idea). Today they generally sell them as mech mod kits.
In my opinion, the mod is the least important part of the vaping experience (assuming you are looking at performance rather than fashion or bling). You can get a good vape out of a modest mod (eg Pico). The atty, coil, juice, wicking, air flow, etc are far more important. I have more than fifteen mods. The number of batteries is perhaps the most important differentiating feature (apart from squonk vs normal regulated mod).
Hi @Hooked, you have asked an excellent question and the guys have given great feedback
Allow me to just add a few things which might help
Firstly, I agree with @Rob Fisher , there is is no right or wrong wattage. If you are comfortable with 20W on your device with your coil and your juices then that is great. As long as you are enjoying the vape then you are winning. Thats the nice thing about a variable wattage device - you can change the wattage to suit your taste.
So what wattage is ideal?
Well, it depends on a number of things. The coil and wire used in the coil. The airflow. The vaping style. The juice. How much heat you want.
I have several setups running at totally different wattages but each is suitable for that device, coil and juice.
Here is a pic of the three setups referred to above. Evod, Siren and Petri.
So what I am trying to show is that each setup has its own wattage range where the vape feels best to me.
It turns out that the wattage required depends a lot on the wire used in the coil. The wire needs to get heated up to vaporise the juice. So thinner wire (as used in the older style Evod coils) need less power than fatter wire. With the fatter wires, there's more metal so it needs more power to heat it up. Thinner wire gets heated up much quicker so it can get away with much less power. At the end of the day its about what power does one need to get a certain temperature at the coil.
The thinner wires tend to have higher resistance than the fatter wires.
I have also found that the "mech equivalent" power for a particular coil is round about where the ideal wattage range is for that coil on a variable wattage device. For a mechanical device (where you cant change wattage) the power is Vsquared over R. So in your case of your 0.6 ohm coil its 29 watts. (4.2*4.2/0.6)
I have found that the ideal power for a particular coil when using a variable wattage device seldom goes way off that mech equivalent.
Look at me. My Evod is 1.8 ohms. mech equiv is around 9 Watts and I use 6 Watts.
My SirenV2 is 1.5 ohms. Mech equiv is 12 watts. I am using 12.5 Watts
My Petri V2 RDA coil is 0.36 ohms. Mech equiv is 49Watts. I am using 40-50 Watts
So back to your question of why should you get a mod that is capable of much higher wattage?
Well, if you get an atty that you put in a lower resistance coil and has a lot more airflow, it will more than likely require a lot more than 40 Watts to really shine. You may not like that vape. Usually much bigger clouds. But you may like it a lot. Without having that mod you cant experiment with those types of vapes.
@Rob Fisher is also correct in saying that if you prefer just flavour you will probably not require a higher power than 40W. But there are other advantages of buying say a 2 battery high power mod. If you run it at say 40 W it will most likely last longer (battery life wise) than your mod because its not being pushed too hard. Yours will be maxing out.
I think vapers who want to experiment with other styles of vaping, lower resistance coils and bigger airflow and clouds should certainly consider getting a high power mod. Even if at the end of it you just use it at much lower power, it gives you options.
Allow me to just add a few things which might help
Firstly, I agree with @Rob Fisher , there is is no right or wrong wattage. If you are comfortable with 20W on your device with your coil and your juices then that is great. As long as you are enjoying the vape then you are winning. Thats the nice thing about a variable wattage device - you can change the wattage to suit your taste.
So what wattage is ideal?
Well, it depends on a number of things. The coil and wire used in the coil. The airflow. The vaping style. The juice. How much heat you want.
I have several setups running at totally different wattages but each is suitable for that device, coil and juice.
- My little Evod1 has a stock coil 1.8 ohms. Its a very tight Mouth to Lung. So very little airflow. I am running it at 6 Watts on my istick20. Its a mild kind of vape and very low power, so i use 18mg juice. I also use 50/50 juice in it because the little coil cant easily handle very thick high VG juice. Its perfect for me for my stealth out and about and my morning light MTL vaping sessions.
- Next is my SirenV2. Also MTL but a bit more power. It has a 1.5 ohm coil in it made with thinnish 28g wire and 12mg juice. Am vaping that at 12.5 Watts. Its great. If i go lower its not enough vapour. If i go much higher it starts to taste a bit burnt.
- Then there is my Petri V2 RDA. It has a 0.36 ohm coil in it with thicker 26g wire. Its a direct lung atty with more airflow. I vape it at 40-50Watts for the current juice (peanut butter ice cream). Seems the temperature and vaporisation is ideal around that wattage. At 50 its a bit hotter and 40 a bit cooler.
Here is a pic of the three setups referred to above. Evod, Siren and Petri.
So what I am trying to show is that each setup has its own wattage range where the vape feels best to me.
It turns out that the wattage required depends a lot on the wire used in the coil. The wire needs to get heated up to vaporise the juice. So thinner wire (as used in the older style Evod coils) need less power than fatter wire. With the fatter wires, there's more metal so it needs more power to heat it up. Thinner wire gets heated up much quicker so it can get away with much less power. At the end of the day its about what power does one need to get a certain temperature at the coil.
The thinner wires tend to have higher resistance than the fatter wires.
I have also found that the "mech equivalent" power for a particular coil is round about where the ideal wattage range is for that coil on a variable wattage device. For a mechanical device (where you cant change wattage) the power is Vsquared over R. So in your case of your 0.6 ohm coil its 29 watts. (4.2*4.2/0.6)
I have found that the ideal power for a particular coil when using a variable wattage device seldom goes way off that mech equivalent.
Look at me. My Evod is 1.8 ohms. mech equiv is around 9 Watts and I use 6 Watts.
My SirenV2 is 1.5 ohms. Mech equiv is 12 watts. I am using 12.5 Watts
My Petri V2 RDA coil is 0.36 ohms. Mech equiv is 49Watts. I am using 40-50 Watts
So back to your question of why should you get a mod that is capable of much higher wattage?
Well, if you get an atty that you put in a lower resistance coil and has a lot more airflow, it will more than likely require a lot more than 40 Watts to really shine. You may not like that vape. Usually much bigger clouds. But you may like it a lot. Without having that mod you cant experiment with those types of vapes.
@Rob Fisher is also correct in saying that if you prefer just flavour you will probably not require a higher power than 40W. But there are other advantages of buying say a 2 battery high power mod. If you run it at say 40 W it will most likely last longer (battery life wise) than your mod because its not being pushed too hard. Yours will be maxing out.
I think vapers who want to experiment with other styles of vaping, lower resistance coils and bigger airflow and clouds should certainly consider getting a high power mod. Even if at the end of it you just use it at much lower power, it gives you options.
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@Shatter I get that the packet of O rings are spares, but but what are O rings? What is their purpose? And where are they on the device? I don't see any O rings on the device?
Sorry @DaveH but I don't get it ... even after sleeping on it!
Thanks @Friep I like your clear explanation. And yes, I've seen some stunning devices on this forum and on the Net!
I doubt that I'll ever build my own coils. I'm truly mechanically-challenged and besides, I don't like fiddling and faffing. For me even needing to refill the tank is a schlepp!
@Hooked, you know more than what you think.@DaveHWhen I started vaping about 3 months ago, I didn't know how much I didn't know. Now I know!!
The o-rings are usually at the top and bottom of the tank to give you a leakproof seal on the glass. Otherwise you will be wearing juice, not vaping it. I have a couple of mods that can handle anything from only 75 to 166 watts and higher. I vape between 25 and 45 watts, only the RDA for dripping is done at 75 plus to test drive new mixes, and for HUGE clouds to scare the neighbours. I seldom have 2 running at same wattage, as juices even dictate depending on taste. Some deserts low, chocolate/ cacao, fruit higher or lower depending on the taste you want to get out of it.
The best mod is one that is comfortable, gives you great battery life, and that you enjoy. Same for tanks. But more tanks and more wattage can give you more options. Happy clouds to you.
@Hooked - maybe squonking could become your thing - much less refilling. Just get someone to build your RDA every now and again
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@Puff the Magic Dragon Ahhhhhhhhh!!!!!! And here I am thinking that for my next mod I really should go beyond Starter Kits!!!!
@Hooked, I marvel at the wattage's some people vape at. Using ordinary single wire coils, you do not need massive power to get a decent vape. My range is between 12 and 18 watt for vaping in power mode, preheat at 50 watt in temperature control which settles at about 14 watt once 220 degrees has been reached. My extreme is around 30 watt on an RDA also containing a simple coil.
Watts are merely an indication of how much energy is used to heat the coil and vaporize juice. The more metal in the coil the more watts required to heat all that metal. Also, the airflow rate, which cools the coils, also matters. Lots of fast moving air will mean more watts are needed to keep the coil at the desired temperature once the metal has been filled with heat.
So the more restricted the airflow and the "smaller" the coil the less heat is required to heat first the coil and then the juice and vaporize it. Of course also the less juice is vaporized translating into smaller clouds as smaller coils also have less surface area exposed to juice. So unless you want to do monster coils and clouds 40W should suffice and 75W is ample.
After all is said and done, a mod is merely a power source and 20W power delivery on a R500 mod is exactly the same as 20W power delivery on a R2500 device. Ok, more bells and whistles maybe but the basics are the same. The stuff that really matters are what fits on top of the mod.
As for your current problem, it may be a dud coil or you may be ready to transition to direct lung vaping. Maybe you should give DLH a try?
Watts are merely an indication of how much energy is used to heat the coil and vaporize juice. The more metal in the coil the more watts required to heat all that metal. Also, the airflow rate, which cools the coils, also matters. Lots of fast moving air will mean more watts are needed to keep the coil at the desired temperature once the metal has been filled with heat.
So the more restricted the airflow and the "smaller" the coil the less heat is required to heat first the coil and then the juice and vaporize it. Of course also the less juice is vaporized translating into smaller clouds as smaller coils also have less surface area exposed to juice. So unless you want to do monster coils and clouds 40W should suffice and 75W is ample.
After all is said and done, a mod is merely a power source and 20W power delivery on a R500 mod is exactly the same as 20W power delivery on a R2500 device. Ok, more bells and whistles maybe but the basics are the same. The stuff that really matters are what fits on top of the mod.
As for your current problem, it may be a dud coil or you may be ready to transition to direct lung vaping. Maybe you should give DLH a try?
@Hooked, the o-rings are found on all atty's, be they tanks using commercial coils to RDA's. This is to help limit the risk of juice leaking out of your atty. They are not found on the mod.
It’s usually a silicone or plastic ring and found where metal or glass parts slide against each other in order to create a seal.
On commercial coils there is an indication of the power range at which the coils can be operated. Going below the indicated range does not allow the coil to get hot enough to sufficiently vapourise the juice. Going above the indicated range heats the coil too much, causing the coil to dry out too quickly and produce a dry hit toward the end of your drag. This is probably why you are getting a sore throat when trying to vape at 40W.
There are 2 main benefits of using a more powerful devise. You are able to use atty’s that require greater power (lower resistance) without the necessity of getting a new mod, and increasing the battery life when using a wattage setting well below the max wattage of the mod, much like the fuel usage of driving a car at lower speed compared to driving at maximum speed. So with a more powerful mod you have greater versatility of coil set-ups and greater battery life.
“Growing up” does not mean to have to vape at high wattage. It’s all a matter of preference. People like @Silver and @Rob Fisher have been vaping for a long time and are highly respected on this forum, both vape at low wattage due to their preferred style of vaping. Others, also experienced and respected, vape at a higher wattage, also due to their preferred style. High wattage tends to cater to the cloud lovers while low wattage caters to the flavour junkies. High wattage produces a warmer vape than low wattage.
Hope this helps without throwing in the added dilemma of choosing between an atty that uses commercial coils as opposed to rebuildable atty's and has been well addressed by previous posts on this thread.
It’s usually a silicone or plastic ring and found where metal or glass parts slide against each other in order to create a seal.
On commercial coils there is an indication of the power range at which the coils can be operated. Going below the indicated range does not allow the coil to get hot enough to sufficiently vapourise the juice. Going above the indicated range heats the coil too much, causing the coil to dry out too quickly and produce a dry hit toward the end of your drag. This is probably why you are getting a sore throat when trying to vape at 40W.
There are 2 main benefits of using a more powerful devise. You are able to use atty’s that require greater power (lower resistance) without the necessity of getting a new mod, and increasing the battery life when using a wattage setting well below the max wattage of the mod, much like the fuel usage of driving a car at lower speed compared to driving at maximum speed. So with a more powerful mod you have greater versatility of coil set-ups and greater battery life.
“Growing up” does not mean to have to vape at high wattage. It’s all a matter of preference. People like @Silver and @Rob Fisher have been vaping for a long time and are highly respected on this forum, both vape at low wattage due to their preferred style of vaping. Others, also experienced and respected, vape at a higher wattage, also due to their preferred style. High wattage tends to cater to the cloud lovers while low wattage caters to the flavour junkies. High wattage produces a warmer vape than low wattage.
Hope this helps without throwing in the added dilemma of choosing between an atty that uses commercial coils as opposed to rebuildable atty's and has been well addressed by previous posts on this thread.
@Hooked James Watt (30 January 1736 – 25 August 1819) was a Scottish inventor, mechanical engineer, and chemist.
His development of the steam engine into The Watt Steam Engine was instrumental in the Industrial Revolution.
He developed the concept of horsepower, and the SI unit of power (the watt), was named after him.
So 'What Watt' or as I saw it 'Which Watt' is James Watt. ................I know, what a load of rubbish
Dave
@Hooked James Watt (30 January 1736 – 25 August 1819) was a Scottish inventor, mechanical engineer, and chemist.
His development of the steam engine into The Watt Steam Engine was instrumental in the Industrial Revolution.
He developed the concept of horsepower, and the SI unit of power (the watt), was named after him.
So 'What Watt' or as I saw it 'Which Watt' is James Watt. ................I know, what a load of rubbish
Dave
@DaveH - that was great!
Thank you!
I think we need a thread dedicated to the origins of these units we use everyday
Watts, Amps, Ohms and Volts
With such descriptions !
Would be marvellous if you have the time to do it for us
@Silver .............I can do that. Oh you are such a smooth talker
Dave
PS @Silver it is here https://www.ecigssa.co.za/volt-amp-ohm-watt-and-their-origins.t45378/
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@Hooked - maybe squonking could become your thing - much less refilling. Just get someone to build your RDA every now and again
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@RenaldoRheeder Ah yes ... squonking. Now that's something that I need to investigate, but I'll leave that for another thread next year.
Most informative reply, thank you @Raindance ! I have wondered whether DL might be better for me e.g. I love the Gusto Mini because of the throat hit; but then, its throat hit could also be because of the high nic in the pods. Maybe I'll look into a DL device at some stage ...
@Hooked - next year is around the corner. If you now had to invite me and my wife for coffee next year, then I could bring the sqounkers around for a spin.
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