I don't see him soldering the 510 after press fitting it, my guess would be it's press fitted from the inside after all soldering was done.
Woodvil Care and Maintenance
- Thread starter Christos
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I don't see him soldering the 510 after press fitting it, my guess would be it's press fitted from the inside after all soldering was done.
I'd tend to agree if the wire was coming off the bottom of the 510 but it looks like its soldered on the side hence it would require some clearance to push the assembly thru which would negate a press fit.
I think you are onto something.
That's why I say it was pressed from the inside, so taking it out you should then press it into the mod and not out.
It's a press fit from the top. I.e it comes out from the top.
Pics of the damage. Also I discovered the button comes out easily enough. Thinking a glow in the dark button will be nice.
Still deciding if I should sand the entire mod down or just work the top portion.
Anybody know what a safe poly coat would be here in SA?
Pics of the damage. Also I discovered the button comes out easily enough. Thinking a glow in the dark button will be nice.
Still deciding if I should sand the entire mod down or just work the top portion.
Anybody know what a safe poly coat would be here in SA?
Very interested to see this repair as it's happening.
Now, you'd mentioned that the leakage seemed to be confined to the polycoat. Looking at your 510 mounting well it looks as if there is some staining where there isn't poly (could just be an impression from the pic). If so, thoughts about that? Sand as best as possible and poly over to seal?
I suspect it went pear shaped because of the moving 510. This explains how the juice got in there. It looks like the polly coat is only for in the outside.
The reason I'm so in love with the woodvil is because each one is so personal and so unique.
I'm really looking forward to modifying her slightly. I'm starting to think I should sand it all down and just do away with the poly coat.
Here's a pic after about 15 mins with some very fine grit sandpaper.
Getting there really slowly, but then again nothing worthwhile is easy.
Over the last two weekends I've been stripping the old varnish off some of the wooden doors here, and then re-doing them with linseed oil. Looks way better in my opinion.
To strip the old finish, I used my heat gun and a scraper which works amazingly well. No damage to the underlying wood, and no messing about with paint stripper. If I was in your situation, that's the route I would try first.
To strip the old finish, I used my heat gun and a scraper which works amazingly well. No damage to the underlying wood, and no messing about with paint stripper. If I was in your situation, that's the route I would try first.
I'm going with the no power tools and funny chemicals or heat. She is going to make my fingers really sore but I'm doing it all with hard elbow grease.
Mostly because I want no accidental damage.
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About an hour and a half later. Done for the day as my fingers are now ready to relax.
Don't think it will get better than this at the 510. Still some dark marks. Need to try and the inside where the 510 sits now.
Also decided she looks better with no poly coat.
She is more beautiful just bare.
Still a long way to go as this is still the first rough sand. Need to sand it down properly, then 2 more Sands with increasing grit fineness until it's ready to buff and then oil.
Don't think it will get better than this at the 510. Still some dark marks. Need to try and the inside where the 510 sits now.
Also decided she looks better with no poly coat.
She is more beautiful just bare.
Still a long way to go as this is still the first rough sand. Need to sand it down properly, then 2 more Sands with increasing grit fineness until it's ready to buff and then oil.
Now you've decided to completely refinish it you can go the wet sanding route to get it really smooth,when you think it's done let it dry and then wipe the mod with a damp cloth to raise the grain let it dry again and then lightly dry sand to finish.what oil are you going to use?
I was trying to buy some butchers block mineral oil a moment ago but the supplier is out of stock.
Olive oil has crossed my mind but I don't know how it will be in the hand.
Speaking of olive oil my 5l barrel is almost finished
Sorry, a bit slow tonight. It looks like the juice seeped under the poly coat and stained the wood.
I don't think the stains will come out completely but the issue was actually beneath the poly coat.
I'm just really excited to still use this mod as it is my favourite. A while back I had 2 reos and I sold them because I used the woodvil exclusively.
Nice job, I also think a oil finish will be nice. Can you post a photo of the 510 showing where it was soldered?
It looks suspect as the wire wasn't actually soldered. I suspect the movement of the 510 caused the join to come undone over time but the mod still worked. Once I refit the 510 I'll drop solder into the join.
P.S I've buffed the 510 slightly as I'm sure you know copper gets really dirty.
I think I once told you that you could use olive oil for the inside of the woodie but I wouldn't go that route for the whole mod.Personally I wouldn't use butchers block either.i'm pretty sure that at some point in their evolution woodvils were finished with tung oil maybe @Spydro or @Papa_Lazarou can help out here.i would suggest you take a look at Danish oil,there's lots or ways to use/apply it and it's less pt than tung oil.i can give you a link to an sa manufacturer if that's the way you would like to go
I'll take any links to sa manufacturers/ stockists at this point.
I know how to work with wood but I've never needed to go beyond the varnish.
I'm pretty sure that REO uses mineral oil on the inside, and Tung oil on the outside of the ones that aren't poly coated. He used to use Tung oil throughout, but early on people complained that the Tung oil on the inside of the mod affected the taste of the juice. Taste and smell are so interconnected that who knows what was going on. Anyway, he changed the inside to mineral oil after that one run. Just a little FYI.
I didn't see this when I posted, but yes, he uses Tung oil for the outside and mineral oil for the inside. I found both at a furniture refinishing store.
One of the reasons I like the woodvil so much is that it enhances the taste of my vape. It adds a kind of toasty full body oak taste.
I believe it's Canadian maple.
I'll send it for you in the morning
@Christos, I agree with you about the taste. I prefer my Woodvils over anything, and I agree they affect the taste. Since taste and smell are so connected, I'm not sure if it actually does change the taste or if I just think it does....but either way, Woodvils are my favorite REOs because of it...among other things. (I love they way they feel in my hand.)
You're doing a beautiful job with this baby, and I think it'll be even prettier when you finish than it ever was with the poly coating. I love the natural finish.
Look at the grain of that wood in the top picture! That is going to just pop with some oil on it. I can't wait to see the finished REO.
I wasn't actually going to redo her but once I felt the bare wood I couldn't leave the poly coat on anymore.
She really is beautiful without the poly coat.
Why, that's the best kind.
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