Woodvil Care and Maintenance

I think I once told you that you could use olive oil for the inside of the woodie but I wouldn't go that route for the whole mod.Personally I wouldn't use butchers block either.i'm pretty sure that at some point in their evolution woodvils were finished with tung oil maybe @Spydro or @Papa_Lazarou can help out here.i would suggest you take a look at Danish oil,there's lots or ways to use/apply it and it's less pt than tung oil.i can give you a link to an sa manufacturer if that's the way you would like to go

I know Reosmods used mineral oil on the inside of the Woodvil's, probably teak or tung oil on the outside. I use Howard's Sun Shield on all of mine both inside and outside. With over the counter wood finishes, wood species plays a roll in which ones work the best on a given species. Some woods and not oily, some are very oily and the wrong finishes may never dry to a hard coat on them. Information on-line from a search can be your guide about wood species and the wood finishes to use on them. But if your Woodie is not damaged and just needs a sprucing up, liquid wax finishes like the one I use, Renaissance wax that many folks also use are all you need to preserve/protect it. I have a set of artists brushes I use to get ii in every nook and cranny, let it soak in for a time then remove the excess and give it a quick buff with a soft cloth.

All woods are toxic to some degree, some species and the higher grades of many more species can be very toxic. And they get treated with even more toxic wood preservatives by jobbers, distributors, etc that are the "middle men" before the woods get to the retail market. I crafted custom wood animal calls for over 50 years from most of the species of woods worldwide that had high grade figure, color, etc. So I bought most of my woods direct from sawyers in the places where they grew and imported them to the US. All the later years I made my own finishes from scratch using 100% pure ingredients, gave them 20 coats because I was only using high exhibition grade woods then that would by default be more toxic. Important to me because they would go in mouths, be slobbered on, chewed on, etc.
 
I'm pretty sure that REO uses mineral oil on the inside, and Tung oil on the outside of the ones that aren't poly coated. He used to use Tung oil throughout, but early on people complained that the Tung oil on the inside of the mod affected the taste of the juice. Taste and smell are so interconnected that who knows what was going on. Anyway, he changed the inside to mineral oil after that one run. Just a little FYI.

JC, you came and conquered while I was typing a long post (with my required breaks). ;) So good to see you posting some.
 
About 2 hours ago.
The door is still poly coated to see the difference.
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This is me for the night.

I have used the finest grit I have but I would still like to spend another 2 hours getting all the sand marks out with a fine grit.

For future reference, I recommend sanding with the door on because I had sanded away about 2mm so the door had a nasty overhang I had to focus on.

The last thing that needs to happen and I don't have a precision drill press to do this is increase the counter sunk depth so the 510 can sit flush.

I have a set of carving and sculpting knives that I'll probably use to increase the depth do the 510 can sit flush but this is highly precision work so it will probably take me a good 3 hours or so.

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LOL @Spydro, you snooze (or take breaks); you lose. Ha good to see you.

You know me, I have to get my coffee fixes... often. Had to break to grind beans, wait for a big mug of piping hot, drink it and get another before I could finish the post I started. :-D
 
You know me, I have to get my coffee fixes... often. Had to break to grind beans, wait for a big mug of piping hot, drink it and get another before I could finish the post I started. :-D
Well, I think I broke a record tonight for the last amount of bourbons in 1 sitting.
I only had 5.
I'll probably have a terrible headache in the morning as I the amount I drink is usually inversely proportional to the severity of the headache.
 
Well, I think I broke a record tonight for the last amount of bourbons in 1 sitting.
I only had 5.
I'll probably have a terrible headache in the morning as I the amount I drink is usually inversely proportional to the severity of the headache.

Reminds me of the day I mustered out of the Navy 45 years ago in San Francisco. The Captain gave me a whole case of Seagram Crown Royal to muster out with. All my shipmates came, and all of them did just one toast with me. When I came to the next morning on the floor the bottles were all empty, so assume I drank half of the case. The plus side is that I never got hangovers. So I was go to go, grabbed the wife and jumped in the buggy, drove south down the coast to Carmel where we were going to live and leased a house. Two days later after rounding up all our belongings scattered in two distant places we lived there. I'd do it again in a heartbeat to live in Carmel again as a bachelor this time around. :nod:
 
Reminds me of the day I mustered out of the Navy 45 years ago in San Francisco. The Captain gave me a whole case of Seagram Crown Royal to muster out with. All my shipmates came, and all of them did just one toast with me. When I came to the next morning on the floor the bottles were all empty, so assume I drank half of the case. The plus side is that I never got hangovers. So I was go to go, grabbed the wife and jumped in the buggy, drove south down the coast to Carmel where we were going to live and leased a house. Two days later after rounding up all our belongings scattered in two distant places we lived there. I'd do it again in a heartbeat to live in Carmel again as a bachelor this time around. :nod:
As much as I would enjoy being a bachelor again, I can honestly say that sharing the joys and beauty of this earth with another doesn't compare to enjoying them by oneself.
There is a great unspoken joy in sharing.
 
This is me for the night.

I have used the finest grit I have but I would still like to spend another 2 hours getting all the sand marks out with a fine grit.

For future reference, I recommend sanding with the door on because I had sanded away about 2mm so the door had a nasty overhang I had to focus on.

The last thing that needs to happen and I don't have a precision drill press to do this is increase the counter sunk depth so the 510 can sit flush.

I have a set of carving and sculpting knives that I'll probably use to increase the depth do the 510 can sit flush but this is highly precision work so it will probably take me a good 3 hours or so.

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Looks good so far.
Here is the link to the Company I buy from http://www.thewoodcarecompany.co.za,they are also the only place I could find in SA that have proper tung oil if thats what you decide to use.
If you decide to go the Danish Oil route then try and check a few videos on how to apply it,there are many methods and if you watch some vids you'll get a feel for which is best for you.
I don't know how much material you've sanded off the mod,before you take any material out of the 510 housing just check that by taking material out of there that the button/firing assembly won't be compromised by doing so.
You'll be lowering the 510 in relation to the button/firing leaf if you do this step.
 
Looks good so far.
Here is the link to the Company I buy from http://www.thewoodcarecompany.co.za,they are also the only place I could find in SA that have proper tung oil if thats what you decide to use.
If you decide to go the Danish Oil route then try and check a few videos on how to apply it,there are many methods and if you watch some vids you'll get a feel for which is best for you.
I don't know how much material you've sanded off the mod,before you take any material out of the 510 housing just check that by taking material out of there that the button/firing assembly won't be compromised by doing so.
You'll be lowering the 510 in relation to the button/firing leaf if you do this step.
I've already thought about this but so deciding if I should shorten the firing leaf or just leave it as is. The firing leaf is already modified from a grand firing leaf.
I'll watch a few vids and get back to you.
 
Looks good so far.
Here is the link to the Company I buy from http://www.thewoodcarecompany.co.za,they are also the only place I could find in SA that have proper tung oil if thats what you decide to use.
If you decide to go the Danish Oil route then try and check a few videos on how to apply it,there are many methods and if you watch some vids you'll get a feel for which is best for you.
I don't know how much material you've sanded off the mod,before you take any material out of the 510 housing just check that by taking material out of there that the button/firing assembly won't be compromised by doing so.
You'll be lowering the 510 in relation to the button/firing leaf if you do this step.
I'm liking the Danish Oil over tung oil. Say a nice finish done with tru oil as well. I'm wondering if the epoxy will hold if I use oil on the wood in the hole before I glue the 510 or if I should glue and seal and then oil.
 
As an afterthought @Genosmate I'll assemble some time today to check how much play I have with the firing leaf.

Measure twice cut once right?
 
So whilst deciding between tru oil or Danish oil I spent about 3 hours carefully cuting away.
I did consider buying a drill press for this but I'm really more of a hand tools kind of person although it did take me 3 hours and this could have been done in 5 mins with the right power tools.

Need to do the final sand and then buff the wood before using epoxy to get everything in place and oiling this beauty.

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So whilst deciding between tru oil or Danish oil I spent about 3 hours carefully cuting away.
I did consider buying a drill press for this but I'm really more of a hand tools kind of person although it did take me 3 hours and this could have been done in 5 mins with the right power tools.

Need to do the final sand and then buff the wood before using epoxy to get everything in place and oiling this beauty.

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Looking great. If I remember correctly Rob from Reosmods just uses superglue to hold the 510 in place. And for the 2015 Woodvils he used mineral oil, inside and outside.
 
Looking great. If I remember correctly Rob from Reosmods just uses superglue to hold the 510 in place. And for the 2015 Woodvils he used mineral oil, inside and outside.
I've already bought epoxy that can withstand 180 degrees celcius and I'm aiming for the finish seen on most guitars. I believe tru oil is used for this.
Just need to get the wood silky smooth before I apply oil to it as I want it to be a showpiece to my hands and mouth.
 
I've already bought epoxy that can withstand 180 degrees celcius and I'm aiming for the finish seen on most guitars. I believe tru oil is used for this.
Just need to get the wood silky smooth before I apply oil to it as I want it to be a showpiece to my hands and mouth.
Looks good so far,either oil will work when it's finished and ready to apply, personally I'd finish the wood before using the epoxy to bond the fittings,the finishes you are considering are penetrative type and not surface coatings so you won't be bonding to a finish but rather the substrate.
 
Looks good so far,either oil will work when it's finished and ready to apply, personally I'd finish the wood before using the epoxy to bond the fittings,the finishes you are considering are penetrative type and not surface coatings so you won't be bonding to a finish but rather the substrate.
That is exactly the information and aquired knowledge I was after.
Thanks. I was worried the epoxy wouldn't work but I really wanted to oil the area where the 510 sits.
 
That is exactly the information and aquired knowledge I was after.
Thanks. I was worried the epoxy wouldn't work but I really wanted to oil the area where the 510 sits.
You're welcome,you obviously have the patience and skill to do it right so just give it time between finishing the oil and bonding the fittings and it will be fine
 
So whilst deciding between tru oil or Danish oil I spent about 3 hours carefully cuting away.
I did consider buying a drill press for this but I'm really more of a hand tools kind of person although it did take me 3 hours and this could have been done in 5 mins with the right power tools.

Need to do the final sand and then buff the wood before using epoxy to get everything in place and oiling this beauty.

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All that hand work should make the finished product even more special to you. You have earned it.

If that was my Woodie @Christos I'd probably give it many hand rubbed coats of tung oil to build the finish to an amber glow. But if you want to keep it light and bright, dewaxed shellac is basically a clear coat that will protect the wood. It doesn't have enough extras to highlight to try to get too fancy with the finish IMO.

The Woodvil's Robert (Reosmods) made could have been easily finished properly with tung oil or teak oil depending on the wood species. He did use tung oil out and mineral oil in mostly, but chose to poly coat many of them instead. Finish is personal preference though.

When the grade of the wood has it all, like this 5A exhibition grade maple stock that has it all and then some, it deserves all the extra work it got. I still have 3 stock blanks of this stuff I got 15-16 years ago from what turned out to be a very special tree a sawyer friend harvested in the PNW.
btmm.jpg
 
The oil has arrived!
Now to find the time to get to it. I was hoping to give it a first coat today but luck is not on my side today.
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The oil has arrived!
Now to find the time to get to it. I was hoping to give it a first coat today but luck is not on my side today.
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You planning on using the stain, too?

Love watching this repair/restoration, BTW. Again, REO's for the win. What other mod is this maintainable by a capable/interested citizen and so gorgeous when finished (which I'm sure this one is gonna be)?
 
You planning on using the stain, too?

Love watching this repair/restoration, BTW. Again, REO's for the win. What other mod is this maintainable by a capable/interested citizen and so gorgeous when finished (which I'm sure this one is gonna be)?
No, i was only going to get the tru oil but decided to get the kit because it contains finer sandpaper than I have bought and it also comes with a buffing cloth (I think).

I also think if Im not happy with the finish I can always use sheen and conditioner to make it shinier than a freshly buffed mirror.

Edit: You have given me an Idea now. Perhaps I should stain the door.
Edit #2: Looking at some quick stain and wipe effects on the internet and now Im thinking a stain would be very nice to accentuate the grain of the wood. Im still thinking natural is probably what Im going to go for.
 
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I'm really confused now.
I'm strongly considering a coat of stain and a quick wipe to accentuate the grain.
Any ideas or suggestions?
 
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