Show us your Builds - User Made Tank Coils (Protanks, Nautilus Etc.)
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The coil is firing correctly?
If so then there is too little cotton on the outsides of the coil, when putting the stem back on, there should be no gap between the cup and the stem, the cotton should fill that, if you can see a gap then there is too little cotton and you would get juice in the mouth if you suck hard enough but should also find flooding on the positive terminal of the battery.
yip the coil fires perfectly
i need to check the cotton on the sides bro, thank you
is using a 1.5mm drill bit too small for the pt1 coil?
should i go wider?
1.5 is fine, just make sure when wicking it that it fits in nice and tight, and when you put the chimney on there are no gaps between the wick and the grommet
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Hey guys
So I have been messing around with ID of coils for the evod cups (the one that only holds single coil - evod, mpt2, pt2, pt1).
What I have noticed is that when using 26g kanthal the max ID you can go is 2.4mm with 9 wraps. This will take up the maximum amount of space in the cup without shorting.
I have also noticed (could just be my imagination) that the big the ID of the coil the tighter the draw becomes in the mpt2, just some food for thought.
Hope this helps.
So I have been messing around with ID of coils for the evod cups (the one that only holds single coil - evod, mpt2, pt2, pt1).
What I have noticed is that when using 26g kanthal the max ID you can go is 2.4mm with 9 wraps. This will take up the maximum amount of space in the cup without shorting.
I have also noticed (could just be my imagination) that the big the ID of the coil the tighter the draw becomes in the mpt2, just some food for thought.
Hope this helps.
makes sense as the air comes in through the bottom and the more cotton and coil that's in the middle, the more the airflow gets blocked. it also amazed me how much a difference the amount of cotton you put in makes. there's that sweetspot of just enough cotton to perform like a machine, anything else and you do notice it's just not grafting as well as it should
I agree, there is a fine balance between the write size coil and the amount of cotton.
For me the balance seems to be a 2mm ID with the right amount of cotton, the 2.4mm ID takes a bit longer to heat up and with the lack of airflow as well seems to be slightly dulled in flavour
For me the balance seems to be a 2mm ID with the right amount of cotton, the 2.4mm ID takes a bit longer to heat up and with the lack of airflow as well seems to be slightly dulled in flavour
Not sure if this is the correct thread for this but I was trying a new bigger build in my mpt3 and I popped the coil, I got a bright glow on one leg and the leg basically snapped in two.
What exactly does that mean? Did I short it by accident or was the power too much? I put it on a mech cause it came out at .6ohms and the moment I saw that I pulled the battery out
What exactly does that mean? Did I short it by accident or was the power too much? I put it on a mech cause it came out at .6ohms and the moment I saw that I pulled the battery out
From the way you explain it, it sounds like a short.
ok so I must have accidently fired it while the tweezer was touching the coil cause I was trying the fire and pinch method.
First time it ever happened to me, at least now I know what it looks like, the battery (efest red 1600mah 30A) is still good to use right?
First time it ever happened to me, at least now I know what it looks like, the battery (efest red 1600mah 30A) is still good to use right?
Great find there sir
I have only tried a 1.5 mm ID. I think i need to try 2mm
I like a tighter draw
Thanks @BhavZ
Yip battery should be fine bro
I think that I need to invest in ceramic tweezers, especially if I am going to push my coil to the limit.
What was strange though was that with 10 wraps, 28g on a 3mm ID, the calculator said 1.8ohms, don't know why it came out at 0.6ohms, i could have torched the wire too much when I was prepping it for building.
What was strange though was that with 10 wraps, 28g on a 3mm ID, the calculator said 1.8ohms, don't know why it came out at 0.6ohms, i could have torched the wire too much when I was prepping it for building.
Yeah batt should be ok they'll get hot if there was a problem. I'm almost paranoid with my pt coils I make them as pretty as I can out the cup then once installed and tested for shorts I leave them alone. Also with heat setting them in the cup the insulator takes a beating.
That is true, but for some reason I couldn't get all the coils to touch outside the cup, so figured ok will do it in the cup, won't be doing that again.
I shall pin this down to building coils too late at night and I need to upgrade some of my building tools, better tweezers and the like.
That does sound to low, don't know what thats all about. Tourching shouldn't affect the wire that badly.
Ok, built a new coil, 3mm ID, 28g kanthal with 10/11 wraps and it came out at 2.4ohms.
So my conclusions is that with a 3mm ID the margin for error is really really small and well not for the fainthearted.
Once I can get some better tools and perhaps a 2.8mm screwdriver I will give this another go.
For now it is possible but way to finicky.
So my conclusions is that with a 3mm ID the margin for error is really really small and well not for the fainthearted.
Once I can get some better tools and perhaps a 2.8mm screwdriver I will give this another go.
For now it is possible but way to finicky.
gonna have to wait for the new subohm protank coils to see what they use to do their subohmnyness, made myself a 0.8 ohm protank coil and it vaped like a boss for about the first 2 drags then the heat melted the little rubber and i was inhaling burnt plastic. blech
I swapped the rubber from my mpt2 coils for the silicone of the mpt3 coils, went to 1ohm with it with no scarring on the silicone. At 1.4ohm with the normal rubber i had some scarring
Sent from my S4 LTE using my finger
Sent from my S4 LTE using my finger
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Protank-E...les_Tobacciana_Smoking_LE&hash=item3ce08433fb
hmm, might these do for subohm?
hmm, might these do for subohm?
Those will work for going down to 1ohm but not sure about sub-ohms though..
Agree will need to look at the sub-ohm coils from kanger to see what type of insulator they are going to use.
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