Hmm in that case I guess I will give it another go! Haha..I forgot that there was a limit to the coil's power..
Cubis
- Thread starter Andre
- Start date
Update from my side - I've had this tank for over 3 weeks now and no complaint. I've been using the 1ohm SS coil and tomorrow marks 3 weeks of none stop use of the coil. It still gives great flavour and a good throat kick, I am super impressed by this tank.
Still doesn't guzzle juice, no spit back and pretty good looking.
Need to purchase the RBA and play around but i'm happy to purchase coils seeing as though they last pretty long with no sign of changing, although, I am eager to try the 0.5 SS. I first used the clapton and that burnt within 2 days, the 1ohm SS is a winner for me.
Still doesn't guzzle juice, no spit back and pretty good looking.
Need to purchase the RBA and play around but i'm happy to purchase coils seeing as though they last pretty long with no sign of changing, although, I am eager to try the 0.5 SS. I first used the clapton and that burnt within 2 days, the 1ohm SS is a winner for me.
Ah, thanks for the update. Have you been using the 1.0 ohm with temp control?
My 0.5 ohm coil has now done 50 ml and still going strong.
Has all 50ml been the same juice? If not I'm curious how you clean the coil between juice changes. Just a vodka soak or do you have another process?
I have been, vaping it at around 255 celsius 18w with the airflow 3 quarters closed.
Today is 3 weeks with it and I do just over a tank a day, it's on me 24/7 haha.
I can tell you from my side, I rotate juice all the time and I vape it basically until the tank is finished and re-fill. It takes a minute to change and all is good from there. Or if there's a ml left, I just empty the tank and fill. Depends what i'm in the mood for
My daily rotations consist of mainly Cowboys Apple pie, MMM Lime Party, Dewberry Cream and 2 DIY fruit medleys (all 12mg). The CAP and Dewberry are very dark juices and after 3 weeks the coil has not gunked or anything, really amazed.
Nope, those were 14 different juices - fruits, desserts, menthols and coffees. I have been using the 0.5 ohm coil between 15 and 25 W. Have not cleaned or vodka soaked it. Just cleaning the spitback screen on top of the coil head with tissue paper - found some black accumulated there. The configuration of the tank is such that one can basically vape it totally empty with just the juice in the wick left over. I find that it takes about 5 toots for the new juice to come through unaffected by the previous juice.
Gave the 1ohm another go. 15w temp control 200°C on berrynade..it was fantastic!
clouds were okay i guess but flavour was good!Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
Using the 0.5 ohm horizontal coil, which came loose in the box, I installed and wicked as in the HD slideshow video in the post directly above. Really tiny pieces of cotton (about 0.5 x 0.5 mm each, maybe a little bit bigger) that needs to go below the coil to block the 2 bottom juice holes. Remember to take off the short vent pipe and screw on the longer one, which comes with the RBA kit.
The vape on this one is great. On par with the commercial vertical 0.5 ohm one, even less noisy mind you. I get awesome flavour and clouds at 20 W on the iStick 40W - super little stealth setup. Do not think I will bother with trying to build a vertical coil again. Too much trouble and the horizontal setup is easy to build and the vape is perfect for me. No spitting so far either.
EDIT: From about halfway down, the tank started gurgling and spitting and the vape became unpleasant. I am starting to think the RBA is not worth the while. Also tried to unscrew the top part of my second RDA to rebuild, but it was a no go. Took a pair of pliers to it. Got it off, but could see the threading was damaged in the manufacturing process - into the gorge it goes - not worth the effort to return to Lungcandy (@Maxxis).
The vape on this one is great. On par with the commercial vertical 0.5 ohm one, even less noisy mind you. I get awesome flavour and clouds at 20 W on the iStick 40W - super little stealth setup. Do not think I will bother with trying to build a vertical coil again. Too much trouble and the horizontal setup is easy to build and the vape is perfect for me. No spitting so far either.
EDIT: From about halfway down, the tank started gurgling and spitting and the vape became unpleasant. I am starting to think the RBA is not worth the while. Also tried to unscrew the top part of my second RDA to rebuild, but it was a no go. Took a pair of pliers to it. Got it off, but could see the threading was damaged in the manufacturing process - into the gorge it goes - not worth the effort to return to Lungcandy (@Maxxis).
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I have to say I don't
I don't fully understand TC.Does the mod have to say SS 316 temp control or will TC do?
And, if I set the TC to (say) 255C what Watts do I use and what difference do the watts do if the temp is set to 255C?
Dave
That deck looks like almost as much as a nightmare as the triton deck!Got my 2 Cubis RBA heads from LungCandy.
They come with a vertical 0.5 ohm coil installed and wicked. First order of business was to take one apart to see how it looks like. Wanted to start off building a vertical coil. Some info on their vertical coil:
My attempt at the coil using 24 g Kanthal. Came out at 0.56 ohms.
- Measured it at 24 g
- Looks like SS
- 3 mm ID
- 6 wraps
- Strip of Japanese cotton with one outer removed. 10 mm x 50 mm.
That little screw to fasten the negative coil tail has a tiny head. The included blue screwdriver does not cut it. Needs a very fine screwdriver. I see many screw heads stripped.
What an epic fail. First up the resistance jumped to almost zero. Fiddled with it a bit. Got it working. The vape was horrible. Gurgling and juice in the mouth (25 - 30 W). The tank got extremely hot and I had to be very careful to not let my lips touch the metal below the delrin drip tip.
Pulled it out and screwed on the other RBA with the pre-built and pre-wicked vertical coil. Much, much better. Still not as good as the 0.5 ohm commercial coil is my initial impression, but there is hope for me yet. Need to experiment much more to get it right.
One problem with this RBA is that one cannot pulse the coil. A solution I picked up on ECF is that one can use the eGrip RBA 510 adapter for this purpose. These are available here and here for R80.00.
Nope, I rolled out a quick 9 turn #28 nickel coil while the kettle was boiling.
Mounted it in the base and then remembered I had to block the bottom juice holes, so just stuck 2 small strips on either side under the coil and uncle bob.
I had to ramp up the power to 42W 250 deg C, running at 0.13 ohms and 11 amps...pretty decent clouds and the last of my coffee was still hot.
I have to say I don't
Does the mod have to say SS 316 temp control or will TC do?
And, if I set the TC to (say) 255C what Watts do I use and what difference do the watts do if the temp is set to 255C?
Dave
Dave, temperature control simply works by continually measuring the resistance of the coil while it is being fired. As the coil temperature increases, so does the resistance of the coil wire. If the wire reaches a specific resistance, the mod 'knows' that it should now be at the Temperature that you dialed in, and it either stops firing, or reduces the power to the coil. If the coil cools off slightly again, the mod will again pick up the resistance drop and fire until the coil resistance increases to the level that indicates your desired temperature. This process is repeated until the fire duration timer is reached, or until you release the button. The resistance measurement is basically done 100's or even a few 1000's of times a second on the latest mods, so they are deemed fairly accurate.
The different types of metals used for TC coils all have different properties, and therefore also different resistances and different 'curves' of how much their resistance changes at specific temperatures. The best results are achieved by using the same TC setting on the mod to match the type of coil you use. For Ni-200, use the Ni setting. For Titanium coils , use the Ti setting and for SS-316 and SS-316L use the SS setting or SS-316 if it has that.
For support of other wires that has a different 'curve', the latest mods supports TCR where you can add the value for the specific wire that you use.
The reason that Kanthal is not supported, is that it's resistance does not drastically change in the temperature range that is deemed safe for us to vape at ( 100 - 315 degrees C). It may change with a few micro or milliohms, but the cheap electronics used in the mods is not accurate enough to detect such small changes.
The Power you set with TC is expressed as Joules on some mods, but that just equates to a power rating of Watts at the end of the day. It still just sets the limit of the power the mod will deliver to the coil. If you set it too low, the mod might not even send enough power to the coil to reach the temperature you want. There is no need to fire a 0.5 ohm coil at 100W to reach 180 degrees Celcius, as it will reach that temperature almost intantaneous and it might actually go far higher than 180 degrees before the mod can detect that is at or above your threshold. A good 15-25 Watts is ample to get to 180 degrees or even 220 degrees. You can almost think of the power setting in TC as a setting for how quick the coil should be heated to your desired temperature. More power to the coil will simply heat it up quicker. If you set it 100W for 250 degrees, the mod will likely reduce or drop power long before the output can actually reach 100W.
The whole TC fad started off with the DNA-40 supporting Ni (Nickel) coils, so to follow suit, most of the cheaper mods were released with support for TC for Ni only, like the iStick TC40W. It only supports TC with Nickel coils, so not a good idea to use Titanium on it.
When people started complaining about the 'dangers' of using Ni at high temperatures and allergies to Nickel, Ti followed Ni very quickly as the next best thing since sliced bread. That is until everyone started complaining about the dangers of Ti again and the possibility of the oxidized Ti coil containing a poisonous particle layer.
Enters Stainless Steel. Stainless Steel has actually been around for quite a while already, even pre-dating the Ni and TC fad if memory serves me correctly. I think the first guys that released it mainstream was SquareOhm, but it is still not available from them in all gauges - only 22SWG and I see it's also only SS-304.
The most commonly used Stainless Steel in use for TC with vaping is the SS-316 and the low-carbon variant SS-316L.
No-one yet provided evidence or 100% proof that vaping is bad for you, but we know that it cannot be nearly as bad as smoking. In the same way, there is still not 100% proof that Ni or Ti is bad for you, but just a lot of theories and speculation. Just like with vaping vs smoking, we tend to play it safe and I have opted to use SS and not Ti and Ni. SS can be fired in Power mode, and it works well in TC mode too. As long as you have a mod that supports SS in TC mode, you can safely use that to ensure you do not caramelize or burn your e-liquid and your wick, thereby inhaling stuff that could potentially be far worse than a stinky.
I hope this helps a bit.
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So, on my horizontal build on the RBA the tank started gurgling and spitting from about the halfway mark. The vape really become unpleasant. I am starting to think the RBA is not worth the while.
Wicking issue.
Those 2 bottom juice holes need effective blocking and probably much tighter cotton wick.
Mine isnt satisfactory yet, if the tanks stands for an hour then it spits and gurgles on startup again.
Maybe the vertical style wicking is the key (tight and juice ports well blocked), just need to mimic it in horizontal mode.
One thing I have noticed even on my lowly 13Watts is the top part of the tank does sometimes get hot. Seems more noticeable on this tank than the Subtank mini.
Otherwise I still like them and the first one with the Clapton 1.5ohm coil is still going strong after (about) 90ml and nearly 4weeks.
Dave
Otherwise I still like them and the first one with the Clapton 1.5ohm coil is still going strong after (about) 90ml and nearly 4weeks.
Dave
No doubt, this tank gets hotter than most - fortunately the heat does not transfer to the Delrin drip tip. Even more heat with the RBA, which I have now given up on for the time being. Good thing the commercial coils seem to last a long time.
I have now switched over to the 1.5 ohm Clapton to give it a try - vaping at 15/16W. Compared the the 0.5 ohm coil the flavour is as good if not a tad better for me. Clouds still good if less. I am actually surprised at the good vapour production with the top air flow.
I have given up on the 1ohm coil..spitback with wiener vape's fetch, so used twice and giving it away at the jhb vapemeet.
Update: Tasting the Papaya really well using the 0.5 at 25w!
Update: Tasting the Papaya really well using the 0.5 at 25w!
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Dunno why either..i used the recommended settings and i guess it just doesnt work for me..After around 24 days of using the 1ohm SS, it's seems it's time for a clean and a test of the 0.5ohm SS coil
@Cobrali That's strange, I never have any spit back from the 1ohm...
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Huh, just had to open my 'big mouth' the 1.5ohm clapton coil has died.
26 Days and approx. 90ml. It still sizzles but hardly any vapor.
Dave
Still, very economical.Huh, just had to open my 'big mouth' the 1.5ohm clapton coil has died.
26 Days and approx. 90ml. It still sizzles but hardly any vapor.
Dave
So i tried the clapton..and..seems like i have two cubis coils to give away at the vape meet..
Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
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