Show us your Builds - Kayfun, Russians & Similar

[Arthster]

me to and i don't like dead people,games with them in or enything that scares the living shit out of me,that's y i don't look at myself when i wake up in the mornings.i think @Arthster and his dogs will agree

I will not argue. played Resistance with @gripon once. One jack rustle is emotionally scarred, the other has a new brown spot. and I am less a coffee table.

 

[gripen]

hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha that was a very difficult time for me

 

[Arthster]

hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha that was a very difficult time for me

Tell that to Buddy

 

[gripen]

poor buddy still feel bad hahahaha

 

[WHeunis]

@BumbleBee:

Last night I recoiled my Lemo for the first time since I got it... Had her setup with a single flat/ribbon 0.8 Kanthal. It was an amazing vape, but I decided last night to "investigate" this double-wire issue.

I got kinda caught up in the work, as it was way more involved than I expected, so I lost track and didn't take photos. Sorry about that...
I might take some snappies when I refill her again later tonight.

I built a double-barrel, 28g round, 2mm ID, 10 wraps per coil setup. Was aiming at my sweetspot 0.8 ohms, ended with 0.9.
At first attempt I also got that jumping resistance you were talking about.
First things first, I checked the screws. (I used the holes, those screws are just too tiny yo wrap around 2 wires).
They were ever so slightly loose. I attribute this to heat applied... Just like a warm water tap, which closes itself as the water gets hotter.

So i tightened them. I checked again and it still happened. I tightened them some more, but snapped the legs on the wires... Spose too tight isn't good either...!

So rebuilt again.
This time I noticed something really strange...
ONE of the wires, coming from the smaller (thinner) post, was flying mightily close to the bigblock post.
NOT touching! Just terribly close.

Put it on the ohm meter, all good.
Put it on the mod, all good.
Fired her to squeeze, still all good.
Tidied up everything, wicked, filled... fired 2 times normal, and then started spazzing out.

Opened her up again, and thats when i saw it.
Right between that "close" wire, a nice little drop of juice.
Cleaned out that drop, fired again, all normal.
Forced another drop in there again, SPAAAAZZZZFFEEEEST!


JUST A THEORY!
While the juice is not conductive enough to cause a short, when the wire is TERRIBLY close to that other post where it shouldn't touch, a drop of juice might just give it that slight enough conductivity boost to cause some fluctuation problems.

I solved it permanently by sticking a small flat screwdriver in that little gap and just bending that wire out to a more comfortable point.
Vaped well and stayed constant all night long.

 

[gripen]

that's intrasting@WHeunis can see that,that small space can cause a problem.its always the small things that cause the biggest problems.its like a plug,a small part of the wire gets water and it shorts out.thanks for shearing bud,next time we have a problem like that,we will no what to look for.

 

[BumbleBee]

@BumbleBee:

Last night I recoiled my Lemo for the first time since I got it... Had her setup with a single flat/ribbon 0.8 Kanthal. It was an amazing vape, but I decided last night to "investigate" this double-wire issue.

I got kinda caught up in the work, as it was way more involved than I expected, so I lost track and didn't take photos. Sorry about that...
I might take some snappies when I refill her again later tonight.

I built a double-barrel, 28g round, 2mm ID, 10 wraps per coil setup. Was aiming at my sweetspot 0.8 ohms, ended with 0.9.
At first attempt I also got that jumping resistance you were talking about.
First things first, I checked the screws. (I used the holes, those screws are just too tiny yo wrap around 2 wires).
They were ever so slightly loose. I attribute this to heat applied... Just like a warm water tap, which closes itself as the water gets hotter.

So i tightened them. I checked again and it still happened. I tightened them some more, but snapped the legs on the wires... Spose too tight isn't good either...!

So rebuilt again.
This time I noticed something really strange...
ONE of the wires, coming from the smaller (thinner) post, was flying mightily close to the bigblock post.
NOT touching! Just terribly close.

Put it on the ohm meter, all good.
Put it on the mod, all good.
Fired her to squeeze, still all good.
Tidied up everything, wicked, filled... fired 2 times normal, and then started spazzing out.

Opened her up again, and thats when i saw it.
Right between that "close" wire, a nice little drop of juice.
Cleaned out that drop, fired again, all normal.
Forced another drop in there again, SPAAAAZZZZFFEEEEST!


JUST A THEORY!
While the juice is not conductive enough to cause a short, when the wire is TERRIBLY close to that other post where it shouldn't touch, a drop of juice might just give it that slight enough conductivity boost to cause some fluctuation problems.

I solved it permanently by sticking a small flat screwdriver in that little gap and just bending that wire out to a more comfortable point.
Vaped well and stayed constant all night long.

Interesting... will definitely check that out when I open her up again, thanks for looking into that

 

[Zenooph]

I'm sorry if the image is a bit big, but I want to get the detail in. It's my first twisted build.
28 and 24 gauge twisted kanthal flattened
2mm ID
0.43ohm

Flavour is amazing and the clouds are decent

Sent from my mind

 

[Riaz]

I'm sorry if the image is a bit big, but I want to get the detail in. It's my first twisted build.
28 and 24 gauge twisted kanthal flattened
2mm ID
0.43ohm

Flavour is amazing and the clouds are decent

Sent from my mind

Nicely done @Zenooph

 

[Zenooph]

Thanks @Riaz! It came out a lot better than I thought my first twisted build would

Sent from my mind

 

[Riaz]

Thanks @Riaz! It came out a lot better than I thought my first twisted build would

Sent from my mind

Twisted coils are awesome!

I also like parallel builds.

Actually i kind of prefer the parallel over the twisted.

 

[Zenooph]

I think I'll try a parallel next

Sent from my mind

 

[Zenooph]

My first attempt at a Clapton! Got it on the very first try!
32g around 26g Clapton
4 wrap
2mm ID
0.48ohm

Sent from my mind

 

[Rob Fisher]

My first attempt at a Clapton! Got it on the very first try!
32g around 26g Clapton
4 wrap
2mm ID
0.48ohm

Sent from my mind

Looks awesome! How does she vape? What power are you firing it at and what juice are you vaping in it?

 

[Zenooph]

Running it at 35w on my M80 with a 70/30 VG/PG Creamy Cinnamon that I mixed a week and a half ago. Intense flavour and loads of vapour.

It's definitely my best coil to date. I'm toying with the idea of a new build, but I'll need some more supplies first.

Sent from my mind

 

[Dullz_vap3]

Hey guys
Awesome job to everyone on the coil builds. I've saved quite a few pictures for builds i shall try soon

I'm currently using a monster v3 and after a few hits at around 45-50 watts I'm getting a dry hit. I was hoping someone here could help me figure something out to help me vape my tank at higher power. It would be a great help

 

[blujeenz]

Hey guys
Awesome job to everyone on the coil builds. I've saved quite a few pictures for builds i shall try soon

I'm currently using a monster v3 and after a few hits at around 45-50 watts I'm getting a dry hit. I was hoping someone here could help me figure something out to help me vape my tank at higher power. It would be a great help

Usually means your wick isnt coping.
What ID is the coil? are you using organic cotton or rayon? and what size wire gauge?

 

[Dullz_vap3]

Im using organic cotton by cotton bacon, coil is quad twisted 28ga around a 3mm screw driver.

Today i decided to try out the scottish roll wicking technique. I didn't use as much cotton as is recommended for it but it still seems to be working pretty well even at around 70watts. Haven't pushed it higher yet but at 70 watts is giving a nice warm dense vape and good flavor.

Sorry for the bad picture i tried to enhance it

 

[blujeenz]

I thought maybe you had a 2mm ID, but your specs look good, its now simply a matter of learning what wicking it wants.
I think that #28 is a bit on the thin side for 50W + Id be thinking of #26 or #24 even, more surface area is a bonus too.
The thinner wire will deteriorate a lot quicker than the thicker stuff at higher watts.

 

[Dullz_vap3]

I thought maybe you had a 2mm ID, but your specs look good, its now simply a matter of learning what wicking it wants.
I think that #28 is a bit on the thin side for 50W + Id be thinking of #26 or #24 even, more surface area is a bonus too.
The thinner wire will deteriorate a lot quicker than the thicker stuff at higher watts.

Yeah i need to get me some normal 24ga and give that a go
Building with quad twisted is an absolute pain in the butt

Thanks for the advice

 

[Zakariya Baker]

Hey guys and gals, I just wrapped a few coils, digging my mega macro twisted coil bc it lets me take power pulls in an rta, and tried a take on something different. I wrapped about 10 times around 3mm, quite big for what im using - 28g kanthal. wanted to try high resistance/ low watt/ high volt vaping on an rta. anyone here have some experience before i wire it up? Also, experimental because im using a lemo 2, wanted a big diameter so i could get this efficiently wicked in the first place

 

[Silver]

Hey guys and gals, I just wrapped a few coils, digging my mega macro twisted coil bc it lets me take power pulls in an rta, and tried a take on something different. I wrapped about 10 times around 3mm, quite big for what im using - 28g kanthal. wanted to try high resistance/ low watt/ high volt vaping on an rta. anyone here have some experience before i wire it up? Also, experimental because im using a lemo 2, wanted a big diameter so i could get this efficiently wicked in the first place

Hi @Zakariya Baker
My experience has been that the lower wattage is not good for bigger diameters.
The smaller the diameter the hotter the coil gets but the less wicking you have.

So i think (and this is just from my experiences) that the higher you go in power, the bigger the diameter of coil you can afford (from a temp point of view) and the bigger the diameter of coil you need from a wicking point of view - ie you need to carry more juice.

At lowish power - say up to 30 Watts i like my small diameters - like 1.6mm. On some devices i have to use 2mm because it needs more wicking. But at higher power, there isnt enough juice in the wick to have such a small diameter.

So my sense is that a 3mm ID with a lowish power vape on 28g wont be optimal. But try it out and let us know how it goes

 

[Silver]

PS - paging @Ezekiel to just check what I said above
Ezekiel, would be awesome to check the temp difference of two similar coils of different diameters - all else equal. Have you got any data like that in your "lab" ?

 

[Lord Vetinari]

I twisted up some steel and made these... absolute killers in the Airforce RDA... .4ohm on the dot. 2 strands of 24g steel each.

This is my third week of building. My progress alright?...

 

[Ezekiel]

PS - paging @Ezekiel to just check what I said above
Ezekiel, would be awesome to check the temp difference of two similar coils of different diameters - all else equal. Have you got any data like that in your "lab" ?

Haha, thanks for the shout @Silver! Glad its getting out!

I have that on my to-do list. Problem with vape-related research is you need the research atomizers for vaping as well... I'll have to scour the classifieds at some time for a few cheapies. I have some related data, but will keep that together for a bigger post.

But I've been speculating, and based on what I've seen thus far:

Hey guys and gals, I just wrapped a few coils, digging my mega macro twisted coil bc it lets me take power pulls in an rta, and tried a take on something different. I wrapped about 10 times around 3mm, quite big for what im using - 28g kanthal. wanted to try high resistance/ low watt/ high volt vaping on an rta. anyone here have some experience before i wire it up? Also, experimental because im using a lemo 2, wanted a big diameter so i could get this efficiently wicked in the first place

Hi @Zakariya Baker
My experience has been that the lower wattage is not good for bigger diameters.
The smaller the diameter the hotter the coil gets but the less wicking you have.

So i think (and this is just from my experiences) that the higher you go in power, the bigger the diameter of coil you can afford (from a temp point of view) and the bigger the diameter of coil you need from a wicking point of view - ie you need to carry more juice.

At lowish power - say up to 30 Watts i like my small diameters - like 1.6mm. On some devices i have to use 2mm because it needs more wicking. But at higher power, there isnt enough juice in the wick to have such a small diameter.

So my sense is that a 3mm ID with a lowish power vape on 28g wont be optimal. But try it out and let us know how it goes

I agree 100% with you, @Silver.

If we compare two coils with the same material (28 AWG Kanthal), the same number of wraps (6), but different inner diameters (2mm and 3mm), and therefore different resistances (1.0 ohm vs 1.345 ohm):

• The 3 mm coil will (when stretched out) be longer (75.11 mm vs 55.85)
• Hence, it will have different surface area's (70.73 vs 51.92 mm2)
• Hence, it will have a lower heat flux (1.32 vs 1.78 Watt/mm2)
• Hence, it will require more power to heat up
• It will be able to wick more juice at a time
• It will utilize more of the available internal airflow

In addition, smaller coils have more constructive/destructive interference when heating - in other words, all parts of the wire is closer to each other, therefore heating one part of the coil causes its neighbouring parts to be heated more, which causes the original part to be heated even more, which causes its neighbouring parts to be heated even more more... you get the idea.

So we see that, with two coils with the same width (ie, same number of wraps), but larger ID, the larger ID coil will take more power to heat up to the same level. However, if you give it more power and get it to the same temperature as a coil with a smaller ID, you'll produce more vape since you've got more of the coil in contact with the juice.
The last two points in the above list I'll get to a bit later.

On the other hand, if we compare two coils in the same manner as above, but instead of keeping the number of wraps constant, we keep the resistance constant (@ 1 ohm), we see the following:

• Both coils will be the same length when stretched out (55.85 mm)
• The larger ID coil will have slightly fewer wraps (~4 instead of ~6)
• Hence, the surface area will remain identical (51.29 mm2)
• Hence, the heat flux will remain identical (1.78 watt/mm2)
• Hence, both coils will take the same amount of power to heat up
• The higher ID will wick more
• The higher ID will utilize more of the available internal airflow

The constructive/deconstructive interference I talked about above still applies here (in other words, due to the wires being closer to each other, will lead to quicker heating) - but I don't actually know how big an effect that is. My research thus far shows that it is not at all, and that the differences because of this effect comes down to fractions of a second. But it is there, either way.

Looking at the list above, we see that if we have two coils with different ID's but the same resistance, they will take the same power to heat up to the same temperature. The only difference between the two coils will be the last two points:

• The higher ID will wick more
• The higher ID will utilize more of the available internal airflow

Lets scratch the first one, and assume our wicking technique is even better than Zeus', and that both of our coils wick fast enough for the power we are throwing at them. Now, we are left only with the last point, but arguably the most important one.

If we have two coils with the exact same physical properties (in terms of how much power it requires to heat up), the larger one relative to the airholes (as well as how the air flows inside the atty) will be cooled more, which generally means more vape - depending on our setup.

For instance, lets say we take the two identical resistance coils from above, and throw 40 W at each of them while drawing as hard as we can. The smaller ID one will reach say 220 Celcius, at which point the airflow across the coil cools the coil almost as fast as the electricity is heating the coil, and the temperature remains more or less constant. On the other hand, with the 3mm coil and at 40 W, there will (usually) be more airflow across the coil, so it is cooled more, despite having the same heat from the electricity (since the two coils' physical properties are identical). So this coil might max at around 200 Celcius, maybe, and therefore produce less vapour. But that means we can bump up the power to 50 W using this coil - despite the fact that both coils heat up at the same tempo - because we have more cooling, and overall we'll produce more vapour at the same temperature in the bigger ID.

Unfortunately, things aren't always that simple. Using a larger coil (and more wick, accordingly) might mean that you'll be blocking of some of the indirect airflow, which can help cool the atty, create bigger clouds (albeit slightly less dense), and cool the final airflow, giving a cooler vape. In addition, a larger coil can actually mean blocking off the route air would take which would give maximum exposure to the coil, and rather force air to follow pathways which give less cooling and less vape. Or it might mean breaking a vortex effect.

In summary, I have found the following regarding coil size. These are mostly still heuristic, but I'm working on backing these up with experimental data:

• Larger coils equals more power equals more vape
• Usually, larger coils gives me an overall larger vape
• Usually, larger coils heats up my atty and mod more
• Too large a coil will give airflow problems - it will get hot too quickly but with very little vape, and the atty will heat up immensely
• Larger coils tends to give me less crisp flavour (not always though, and not necessarily less flavour)

So all in all, I'll say what I always say - larger/smaller isn't better/worse, it will only depend on the atty. Certain atty's like smaller coils, certain atty's like bigger coils.

Btw, in terms of the electrical properties.... I haven't found any difference in any resistance range. As long as you stay safe, and you're mod is more than capable putting out higher voltage for higher resistance builds, I haven't found any difference in vapour/flavour production based on resistance, if the physical properties of the wires (heat flux, heat capacity ect) remains the same. So you don't necessarily have to think higher resistance means more voltage means super-fast moving electrons which will blow the crap out of that poor little Suicide Bunny - it generally is all the same, as long as the power (W) is the same. I think some of the pervasive ideas that lower resistance equals more vapour stems still from the days before variable voltage or variable wattage. At much very high or very low resistances there are some thresholds and funky patterns in terms of electricity flow and the thermodynamics of the material, but I believe these occur outside of vaping ranges.

That said, if you are building a high resistance build, just check whether your regulated mod and batteries can handle it - they can be as dangerous as a low-ohm build if your regulated mod doesn't have the correct safety features. And keep a watch on the mod's temperature - some mods can handle a high resistance build at high wattages only once, if you get what I'm saying.