The Nuppin Thread
- Thread starter Rob Fisher
- Start date
I tried this with a 3mm ID and Ni 200 on the steam crave squonk mod. Was really impressive for about 2 minutes until i tasted something odd.My typical build, 2.5mm ID
A single parrallel from earlier in this thread.
Turns out the coil was too close to the drip tip and it melted the base of the tip.
Will give 2.5mm id a try but I doubt I will be successful because I only managed to procure Ni 200 in 26AWG and the resistance on the steam crave mod has to be 0.1 Ohms or higher.
Ive just reverted back to to the reo wodvil and cyclone for my bottom feed needs right now.
Pics for reference of above mentioned coil.
@Christos, this is one of my favourite coils for this atty. Nice build.
Simply stunning coil
Was early in on them when they first became available (both versions), so with 8 Nuppin's in hand I've tried a bunch of different builds in them. Everything from wild & crazy builds down to KISS builds. My all time favorite flavor build in them for my long. slow DLH's is a high center parallel with 2 slots wide open minimum. I build to my DIY jooses, so for some I take the AFC sleeve off so I can run 3 slots wide open. I also run dual horizontal 3mm cotton pulled & rolled, and builds for 3mm RxW in them.
Unfortunately the one in the picture might be somewhat misleading as it is a V2 Nuppin' mounted on the Woodie to test fire/wick it before I intentionally reduced the inner chamber height of it by mounting the base itself higher off the mod than this shows so the cap/sleeve could slide down and mount lower than it normally would (netting me a much shorter/smaller internal atty chamber). IOW, that coil as mounted in the picture would not necessarily have to go inside of the slip fit "shield" of the Delrin DT, rather just closer to the top cap than + post maybe if the base was left mounted flush to the mod top so the cap would mount on the base for a normal size inner chamber. You can't do that quick and easy mod feature with a V1 Nuppin' base due to the bottom flange on the base, making the V2's more versatile. In use this base is remounted for the shorter inner height so the coil does go partially up inside the Delrin so almost all intake air has to create a vortex right around the coil itself on it's way up and out of the DT to get maximum flavor rich vapor. I have a V1 on another Woodie with a similar build where the chamber size can't be reduced and the coil is much closer to the top of the positive post. I'll try to get a picture of it, maybe also the high mounted base of the V2 above to add to this as well for comparison. Between them that might give a better idea of how much room there really is for high center coils in the Nuppin's depending on the ID you wrap them at.
As said the key is to measure everything so you know exactly how much room you have for a top center coil without the possibility of it shorting out on the top of the positive post or the cap whether in a standard size Nuppin' chamber or a reduced one like this V2 is ran with. I measure everything with a dial caliper first, then wrap and install the parallel coil with a little extra slack in the lightly twisted legs. That little extra is needed to be able to tighten the positive center grub with the coil off to one side of center. Then just position it at the right height centered over the positive pole by stretching the legs up using the form it was wrapped on. You might also need to use a micro screwdriver, etc to help bend the legs/position them where you want them in trying to keep them near equal length with the negative legs that you can change the easiest. It might sound worse than it really is once you've built one of two of them yourself.
This is definitely a build you want to check with the cap on with your ohm meter before you mount it on a mod and fire it. Also a good idea to do the same when you rewick it, as it wouldn't take all that much to move the coil enough when cleaning it/installing new wick to short it out on the + post or cap if micro close to either.
This particular V2 build pictured for the joose it runs is a 27 KA1, 8 wrap parallel on a 2.5mm form that nets .63 ohms, 6.6A/28W peak (hf/hc 146/28, lpl<6%).
Bottom line... is it worth the trouble? For my style of vaping it is for me... one of the best flavor builds I've ever used on my Nuppin's. YMMV... the only way to know for sure is to try one yourself.
Sheesh, a book, a pitfall of the written word sometimes (sorry).
I need to go make another pot of coffee now...
Unfortunately the one in the picture might be somewhat misleading as it is a V2 Nuppin' mounted on the Woodie to test fire/wick it before I intentionally reduced the inner chamber height of it by mounting the base itself higher off the mod than this shows so the cap/sleeve could slide down and mount lower than it normally would (netting me a much shorter/smaller internal atty chamber). IOW, that coil as mounted in the picture would not necessarily have to go inside of the slip fit "shield" of the Delrin DT, rather just closer to the top cap than + post maybe if the base was left mounted flush to the mod top so the cap would mount on the base for a normal size inner chamber. You can't do that quick and easy mod feature with a V1 Nuppin' base due to the bottom flange on the base, making the V2's more versatile. In use this base is remounted for the shorter inner height so the coil does go partially up inside the Delrin so almost all intake air has to create a vortex right around the coil itself on it's way up and out of the DT to get maximum flavor rich vapor. I have a V1 on another Woodie with a similar build where the chamber size can't be reduced and the coil is much closer to the top of the positive post. I'll try to get a picture of it, maybe also the high mounted base of the V2 above to add to this as well for comparison. Between them that might give a better idea of how much room there really is for high center coils in the Nuppin's depending on the ID you wrap them at.
As said the key is to measure everything so you know exactly how much room you have for a top center coil without the possibility of it shorting out on the top of the positive post or the cap whether in a standard size Nuppin' chamber or a reduced one like this V2 is ran with. I measure everything with a dial caliper first, then wrap and install the parallel coil with a little extra slack in the lightly twisted legs. That little extra is needed to be able to tighten the positive center grub with the coil off to one side of center. Then just position it at the right height centered over the positive pole by stretching the legs up using the form it was wrapped on. You might also need to use a micro screwdriver, etc to help bend the legs/position them where you want them in trying to keep them near equal length with the negative legs that you can change the easiest. It might sound worse than it really is once you've built one of two of them yourself.
This is definitely a build you want to check with the cap on with your ohm meter before you mount it on a mod and fire it. Also a good idea to do the same when you rewick it, as it wouldn't take all that much to move the coil enough when cleaning it/installing new wick to short it out on the + post or cap if micro close to either.
This particular V2 build pictured for the joose it runs is a 27 KA1, 8 wrap parallel on a 2.5mm form that nets .63 ohms, 6.6A/28W peak (hf/hc 146/28, lpl<6%).
Bottom line... is it worth the trouble? For my style of vaping it is for me... one of the best flavor builds I've ever used on my Nuppin's. YMMV... the only way to know for sure is to try one yourself.
Sheesh, a book, a pitfall of the written word sometimes (sorry).
The last coil in the nuppin that was a single coil for me (One of my last posts in this thread) caused a plastic melt of my delerin drip tip that I inhaled.
Was more pleasant than a dry hit
Awesome, thanks @Spydro
I know exactly what you mean about the V1 versus the V2 and the V1 having the flange while the V2 is more versatile.
I have both the V1 and the V2 and while I appreciate the V2, I must say I prefer the V1 for the simple reason that I find the V2 leaks ever so slightly on occasion - not sure what is going on - but there is sometimes a tiny bit of juice around the base. I have checked the o-rings around the base and all looks good - I think it could be an over squonking thing
Yet not a single drop of juice on the V1.
That said, I am very keen to try a single parallel coil on the Nuppin and I will review your comments. I don't understand them all but I do get an idea of what you are referring to. Maybe a picture will help.
My best coil setup to date on the Nuppin is 28g duals - 1.6mm ID - coming out at about 0.5 or so. I like smaller ID 28g coils because I find it gives me a crisper vape on the fruity menthols and I like the instant rampup.
By the way, love your coil specs but what does the following refer to?
(hf/hc 146/28, lpl<6%)
Thanks again for the explanation and the post...
I know exactly what you mean about the V1 versus the V2 and the V1 having the flange while the V2 is more versatile.
I have both the V1 and the V2 and while I appreciate the V2, I must say I prefer the V1 for the simple reason that I find the V2 leaks ever so slightly on occasion - not sure what is going on - but there is sometimes a tiny bit of juice around the base. I have checked the o-rings around the base and all looks good - I think it could be an over squonking thing
Yet not a single drop of juice on the V1.
That said, I am very keen to try a single parallel coil on the Nuppin and I will review your comments. I don't understand them all but I do get an idea of what you are referring to. Maybe a picture will help.
My best coil setup to date on the Nuppin is 28g duals - 1.6mm ID - coming out at about 0.5 or so. I like smaller ID 28g coils because I find it gives me a crisper vape on the fruity menthols and I like the instant rampup.
By the way, love your coil specs but what does the following refer to?
(hf/hc 146/28, lpl<6%)
Thanks again for the explanation and the post...
Am vaping on the V2 Nuppin right now.
Not sure if you can see but in the bottom left side of the photo there is a tiny bit of juice trying to escape out of the base.
Doesn't cause a problem or leak badly. Just affects my OCD.
By the way this is a glorious vape. It's Paulie's Guava with a bit of menthol but that is another story for a different thread. Lol.
Not sure if you can see but in the bottom left side of the photo there is a tiny bit of juice trying to escape out of the base.
Doesn't cause a problem or leak badly. Just affects my OCD.
By the way this is a glorious vape. It's Paulie's Guava with a bit of menthol but that is another story for a different thread. Lol.
The last coil in the nuppin that was a single coil for me (One of my last posts in this thread) caused a plastic melt of my delerin drip tip that I inhaled.
Was more pleasant than a dry hit
Not good. With this one that is up inside the Delrin it's not really that hot of a build, but I don't chain vape it anyway. A couple of long pulls will cause total white out in the den, so I set it aside for a while to cool off and just grab another Reo.
Don't worry about that @Silver, as you get older you won't even see it.
Lol @Alex
You know my eyesight must have deteriorated slightly since I got the Nuppin
I had to zoom in to the max on the iPhone to even see that.
It's that little glistening shiny fluid that seeps out of the crack
Can hardly see it but I know its there and it bugs me
Lol @Alex
You know my eyesight must have deteriorated slightly since I got the Nuppin
I had to zoom in to the max on the iPhone to even see that.
It's that little glistening shiny fluid that seeps out of the crack
Can hardly see it but I know its there and it bugs me
I guess you could just change out the o-rings.
@Silver, I have 4 V1's and 4 V2's. Very early in the planning of the V2 I discussed it at length with Peter and "D" about the leak potential of the V2 by not having the bottom flange of the V1 to help prevent it. But in the real world once I got the V2's I found that they did not leak at all, they never have. To throw a little salt on the wound maybe, I only run the bottom o-ring on all 8 of my Nuppins, and none of them leak around the bottom, ever. That is something I have done with atty's since before the Nuppin's came along, in part because some of them in my dripping days with 2 (or more) o-rings took near a parting of the Sea to get their caps off. I do sometimes get a build up of condensed vapor around an AFC slot on either version if it is closed for a single coil build though. A product of my very long lung hits most likely.
I'll take a couple pictures that might help. but it'll become easy clear when you actually set in to building one youself.
Because of my long DLH's ramp up is not as important to me as it is for tootle puffers, etc. I will get the massive flavor rich vapor I seek with 10, 12, 15 second or longer hits using big wire on big form coils.
Excess build specs for most folks, especially those that use a standard build for every atty and every joose. They are more for the super splitter's/temp vape folks who analyze every aspect of coils they can think of. Basically... hf is heat flux based on peak wattage that gives an idea of how warm the vape will be (but it is effected by many other things too); hc is heat capacity per coil... a ramp up time factor; lpl is the percentage of power wasted to heat up the length of the resistance wire legs in the build.
I'll take a couple pictures that might help. but it'll become easy clear when you actually set in to building one youself.
Because of my long DLH's ramp up is not as important to me as it is for tootle puffers, etc. I will get the massive flavor rich vapor I seek with 10, 12, 15 second or longer hits using big wire on big form coils.
Excess build specs for most folks, especially those that use a standard build for every atty and every joose. They are more for the super splitter's/temp vape folks who analyze every aspect of coils they can think of. Basically... hf is heat flux based on peak wattage that gives an idea of how warm the vape will be (but it is effected by many other things too); hc is heat capacity per coil... a ramp up time factor; lpl is the percentage of power wasted to heat up the length of the resistance wire legs in the build.
@Silver , I see you mention changing O-Rings. Where can I get spare O-Rings and Grub Screws for the Nuppin V2, and just for the record, I also have that little leak you mention around the base....lol
Hi @Petrus. I am not sure where we will get o rings and other spares. I need to see if I have any in my Nuppin area of the vape box. If I don't have then we will have to make a plan. But as I said the leak does not affect the experience because it's so minor.
My grub screws are still in tact
@Silver, thanks for the reply, ja O Rings is a bit of a problem. I have mentioned in a previous post, why can't a vendor or vendors try to make up a O Ring kit, with most of the common sizes. I definitely think they will sell. Well I will definitely be first in line.
O-rings for the Nuppin' (V1 and V2) are standard 10 x 1 mm for the base and 11 x 1 mm for the top cap. These can be had from any o-ring supplier.
Trying out some new wire on the Nuppin, Nichrome 80 with a 2.5mm coil using 0.5mm wire. Ohms read @ 0.25
After a full day of use I'm hooked, the performance of this Nichrome is really amazing, lightning fast ramp up times and great flavour.
Sent from iPhone
After a full day of use I'm hooked, the performance of this Nichrome is really amazing, lightning fast ramp up times and great flavour.
Sent from iPhone
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