Thats quite a good review. Did you find the evod leaked a bit with cotton wick? I always had that problem to much cotton, dry hits. To little cotton leaks. Finding a happy medium was a pita.
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Show Us Your Working Wick And Coil Setup
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Thats quite a good review. Did you find the evod leaked a bit with cotton wick? I always had that problem to much cotton, dry hits. To little cotton leaks. Finding a happy medium was a pita.
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Thanks man, appreciate it.
I have not yet had an issue with leaking. What I like about the raw cotton is that because it is more absorbent it tends to swell quite nicely. With using cotton, when you replace the post make sure that there is no gap between the post and where the wick exits the bowl of the coil. A few primer puffs lets me know if there is chance of a leak or not are needed when the coil is place back into the clearo but that is a once off thing when you change the cotton (if you are puffing air then the wick is perfect, if you hear juice being sucked in then there is too little wick). Dry burn is more likely to occur if the coil is in any way covered by cotton, ensuring that the wick is visible with the post off prevents the issue of dry hits.
Great review, thank you for the trouble, @BhavZ. Have a sneaky suspicion the boiling partly breaks down the fibers in the cotton, leading to your results. I have always boiled my cotton for in raw format it had an ugly industrial taste to me. However, found that my cotton wicks did not last long and had the tendency to break up. This made me wary of cotton, frequently abandoning it as a wicking material. Following your review I think the answer is that this is probably because of the boiling process. Will test this when I next wick.
Hey guys,
So a big thank you to @Cape vaping supplies for allowing me to purchase some 28g kanthal on a Saturday morning.
Built my first coil, 10 wraps and came out at 1.5ohms in an evod housing:
There was a bit of a kink in the kanthal which I couldnt straighten but still vapes like a beast.??
So a big thank you to @Cape vaping supplies for allowing me to purchase some 28g kanthal on a Saturday morning.
Built my first coil, 10 wraps and came out at 1.5ohms in an evod housing:
There was a bit of a kink in the kanthal which I couldnt straighten but still vapes like a beast.??
Thanks man, was a lot easier than I thought it would be
Thanks..
So been spending the day building coils trying to get my skill level up, so I noticed that with 28g, 6 wraps gets me 1ohm. 8 wraps gets me 1.3ohms and 12 wraps gets me 1.5ohms
I noticed that with getting better at wrapping (wrapping tighter) I need more wraps to get higher ohms, my first coil was done with 1o wraps loosely wrapped to get 1.5ohms and now I need 12 wraps to get 1.5ohms
Could also be the length of the kanthal I am using each time as I do it by eye and not using an exact measurement.
Forgot about that, but in the case of today I was using the same screw driver to wrap on but now that I think about it, the tighter the wrap the smaller the diameter..
Shot for the heads up @johanct
To get rid of a kink in kanthal . Grab a screw driver place wire over shaft place thumb over wire holding wire down and pull wire through . Kink gone .. ta da
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Shot dude for the tip, will definitely give that a try
Fantastic comparison @BhavZ !! Well written and laid out
And thanks for sharing your findings. I found it most useful.
All the best and enjoy the vape
And, great 1st coil!
Thanks man, appreciate it
How did you rewick the evod coil with cotton if i may ask?
I mean before you built your own coil
Did you just pull out the silica? Then how did you get the cotton in?
I mean before you built your own coil
Did you just pull out the silica? Then how did you get the cotton in?
Decided to re work the kraken as everyone said it was hitting like a beast . So I have given it a single 1.5a coil from 26g kanthal on a 2.4 mm drill bit and tried some eco and some cotton as a drip . To test the joose box samples .
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I took a sharp nose tweezer and pulled the silica out. Then I took some cotton wool and twisted like one would to with a normal built coil, dipped the tip in some juice and made a point out of it then fed it through till it came out the other side of the coil then used the sharp nose tweezers again to pull it further through. When doing so I noticed that the coil started to bunch up so I used a flat nose precision screwdriver to space the coils again and boom rewicked coil..
I used the tips in this vid to rewick, jump to 6.31 to go straight to the point where he rewicks.
Hope that helps.
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@BhavZ yip...that is the video I followed as well. once u get the hang of it its all pretty simple with the Evod coiling and wicking. I found it more of a challenge to hit the right resistance. I wanted to do 2 off 1.5ohm coils, the other night, and ended up doing 3 oils each before it was right.
Once you put the wick in and position the coil a bit deeper in the base (for the "top cap") it is difficult to redo the very same coil. i rather make another one up.
with the tiny space in there its very important to have a neat coil, me thinks....
??
Once you put the wick in and position the coil a bit deeper in the base (for the "top cap") it is difficult to redo the very same coil. i rather make another one up.
with the tiny space in there its very important to have a neat coil, me thinks....
??
Thanks for posting that video @BhavZ
Wow, RipTripper makes it look so easy. I thought his video was excellent. The performance he got from a 1.8 ohm coil is amazing. But he was at 15 watts on a zmax.
Just a few questions for you guys with experience rebuilding Protank/Evod coils
1. Rip Tripper takes out the rubber grommet. He was using a 50/50 juice. Do you guys do the same? I thought the rubber grommet was important for flooding and gurgling issues.
2. How long does the cotton wick last? The whole point of doing this rebuild for me would be to get better performance out of my PT2Mini but also for it to last a while. If i have to rebuild or fiddle every day or two because of a worn out wick then that would irritate me.
3. @Tom perhaps this question is directed at you. What coild resistance do you think one should aim for to use it on a vision Spinner? Not sure of the Spinner's max amps.
Am really keen to try this out. Also makes me think of @SVS1000 's tutorial a while back.
Wow, RipTripper makes it look so easy. I thought his video was excellent. The performance he got from a 1.8 ohm coil is amazing. But he was at 15 watts on a zmax.
Just a few questions for you guys with experience rebuilding Protank/Evod coils
1. Rip Tripper takes out the rubber grommet. He was using a 50/50 juice. Do you guys do the same? I thought the rubber grommet was important for flooding and gurgling issues.
2. How long does the cotton wick last? The whole point of doing this rebuild for me would be to get better performance out of my PT2Mini but also for it to last a while. If i have to rebuild or fiddle every day or two because of a worn out wick then that would irritate me.
3. @Tom perhaps this question is directed at you. What coild resistance do you think one should aim for to use it on a vision Spinner? Not sure of the Spinner's max amps.
Am really keen to try this out. Also makes me think of @SVS1000 's tutorial a while back.
1) I converted my rubber grommet into a washer, saw it somewhere on the forum - cant remember who but big thanks to that person. What I did was with the rubber grommet on the stem took a stanley knife and cut the lip off so that it looks like a disc. It still seals off the chimney from the juice but exposes the wick perfectly, I do it for both cotton wicks and standard silca wicks.
2) The thing with cotton is that you cant really wash it out so I firstly would change change my wick with every flavour change. I started changing wicks from silica to cotton in the week and got about 3 days out of it easy and the only reason I changed the wick after 3 days was because I wanted to change flavours. One thing to remember is that if you get just one dry hit you will need to change the cotton (so far I have not gotten a single dry hit)
3) In a few write-ups that I have read it is not safe to go below 1.3 ohms on an ego battery, the amp draw is too much and can damage the battery. Personally 1.3 0hms is a bit too low for an ADV setup for me, my sweet spot is definitely 1.5 ohms.
Hope that helps.
Glad I could help
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